Routines: Sun Protection: Fall 2017

The best sunscreen is one that you will actually use.

This is tricky. As much as I want the protection PA++++ offers, like most people I have trouble finding a sunscreen that strikes a balance between texturally acceptable and non-irritating. I am particularly reactive to UV filters, so when I find one my skin can tolerate, only then is it possible to consider whether the texture is tolerable. Something like Avène Very High Protection Mineral Fluid SPF50+/PA++++ is gentle and provides the UVA protection that's required, but like most all-physical sunscreens the suffocating feel on the skin is hard to tolerate and, regardless of its fitness for my skin, I will end up applying too little or, worse, avoiding it entirely.

Luckily, I've got one that works, with enough stockpiled for a nuclear winter: Sun Bears Super Strong Plus SPF50+/PA++++. I would not pretend it is the best texture out there, but in order for a sunscreen not to be irritating on my skin, a higher proportion of physical filters—and the corresponding sacrifice in texture—is necessary. An absolutely invisible sunscreen is not realistically within the realm of possibility for me, so I'm happy that Sun Bears is pleasant enough for everyday use, and like most fluid sunscreens there's enough silicone to double as a primer, and the scent is faint and inoffensive. The zinc oxide is a tad drying, but over the multiple strata of skincare typically applied onto my skin, I can hardly sense it. For all the things it is not (suffocatingly heavy, greasy, dead matte, stinky, irritating, alcohol-laden, prohibitively expensive, hard to apply), this serves as my neutral sunscreen.

It's amazing how sensitive this balance can be, how individually determined. A sunscreen that's even a little off loses significantly in terms of use value. Something like Too Cool For School Mild Cica Sun Lotion SPF50+/PA++++ manages nearly everything, but stumbles at the last when it comes to finish: it's simply too dead a matte. And yet, this would be great on an oilier skin. On the other hand, Anessa Perfect UV Sunscreen Aqua Booster SPF50/PA++++ offers the silky texture of dreams (though it does sit strangely under makeup), but is too harsh for my skin.

Among the trickle of PA++++ sunscreens on the Korean market, I've had better luck with Laneige Watery Sun Cream SPF50+/PA++++ and Huxley Sun Cream: Stay Sun Safe SPF50+/PA++++. Neither presents any serious issues, but they're both somewhat heavier and considerably pricier than the perennially reliable Sun Bears, so neither suffices as a replacement, though the boost in moisture might be nice for winter. We'll see. I am still in the process of testing.

N.B. All of these products, with the exception of the Anessa, leaves a white cast. I'm fair-skinned so personally this is not an issue.

DETAILS
Avène Mineral Fluid is 40mL for $16, available at Cocoon Center. I bought mine at Olive Young for ₩32,000.
Sun Bears Super Strong Plus is 28mL for $3.50, available at Sasa.
Too Cool For School Mild Cica Sun Lotion is 100mL for ₩23,000. I bought mine in store.
Anessa Perfect UV Sunscreen Aqua Booster is 60mL for $30, available at Sasa. I bought mine at Watson's for ₩36,000.
Laneige Watery Sun Cream is 50mL for $27, available at Aritaum.
Huxley Sun Cream: Stay Sun Safe is 35mL for ₩28,000. I bought mine at Chicor.

Routines: Cleansing: Fall 2017

Theoretically the simplest part of my routine. And yet I always end up with so many cleansers.

As I've explained in this brief overview, my skin's inadequacy as a barrier is its most salient characteristic: thin, low sebum, dehydrated under arid conditions, and frequently irritated. On top of the customary avoidance of known irritants, what meager acid mantle I've got is easily disrupted, restricting me to minimally invasive formulations, yet not so emollient (most balm cleansers) the residue requires a washcloth. You'd be surprised at what my skin considers aggressive. Nearly anything that foams, the texture of washcloths, a hot shower, even micellar water on cotton wool can be an issue at times.

Fortunately, as I break out rarely, the tactics required to minimize the potential for congestion and acne are largely unnecessary. I also wear very little base makeup, which bypasses the need for intensive cleansing later.

Nevertheless, there are still cleansers my skin tolerates without issue. Well formulated basics, like cleanser, are readily available for not too much trouble or expense, and I most frequently default to the cheapest: Bioderma Atoderm Ultra-Nourishing Shower Oil. In spite of the name, it's a simple, extremely mild detergent-based (not oil) cleanser, barely lathering, with a fragrance reminiscent of sweet peas. It's not an exceptional cleanser in regards to makeup removal, merely adequate; this is what I would consider a 'neutral' cleanser, a reliable basic around which you build the rest of your routine, according to your needs. Everyone needs one. For me, a good cleanser is negatively defined: it's not harsh, it doesn't leave any residue, it doesn't reek of perfume, it's not expensive, but it leaves my skin clean. From time to time, I will play with something more indulgent, purely for the fun of trying out something new, but it's always a comfort to know this has my back.

I employ no elaborate techniques when cleansing: rinse face, apply cleanser, rinse hands, massage gently until you can feel the grime lift off the skin, rinse. Occasionally I do require heavy-duty removal for waterproof sunscreen and makeup, and like most people, for the sake of thoroughness (and gentleness), I find it ideal to break up the process of cleansing into multiple steps. Since I wear waterproof mascara, I soak cotton wool in Bifesta Eye Make Up Remover in order to first dissolve the curl-holding-but-extremely-tenacious formula. Afterwards, I may do a single-cleanse with a neutral cleanser, or I might double-cleanse with micellar water or the eucalyptus-scented, aptly named Heimish All Clean Balm, a solid cleansing oil and therefore a proper makeup remover.

On standby are two products that neatly illustrate how skincare often answers psychological needs rather than utilitarian: Hanyul Ja Cho Oil Cleansing Balm, a non-emulsifying emollient balm, and Tata Harper Refreshing Cleanser, a luxurious cleansing milk. They leave my skin feeling happy, but they don't feel quite right as a daily cleanser. The Hanyul in particular leaves my skin looking clear and refined, but cannot be worked without a washcloth, so I save it for 'spa days', when I'm in the mood for a facial massage.

DETAILS
Bioderma Atoderm Ultra Nourishing Shower Oil is available in 100mL, 200mL, and 1L sizes at Feel Unique for roughly $8-20. I bought mine at Olive Young for ₩22,000.
Bifesta Eye Make Up Remover is 145mL, available at sasa.com for $6.80. I bought mine at Olive Young, on sale two for ₩12,000.
Heimish All Clean Balm is 120mL, available on Amazon. I bought mine at Åland for ₩18,000.
Hanyul Ja Cho Oil Cleansing Balm is 60mL, available at Aritaum. I bought mine (on sale) at Aritaum for ₩19,000.
Tata Harper Refreshing Cleanser is $78 for 125mL, available at Nordstrom. I bought mine at Cult Beauty for £58.33.