Spotlight On: Hanyul Rice Essential Skin Softener

The one that started it all. The Hanyul Rice Essential Skin Softener was my gateway to the 7Skin Method.

What I've discovered is that, with sufficient hydration, my skin tends to sort itself out. Excepting the arid winter months, I've become less drier and sensitive than before. (Incorporating niacinamide, with its barrier-repairing, ceramide-production inducing, photocarcinogenesis-inhibiting, melanin-formation-suppressing, anti-inflammatory, etcetera functions, has also helped enormously.) It may take a lot of layering to get there, but 7Skin works. Dehydration is better addressed by several light layers than a single heavy one, though I've never found it necessary to go full seven layers. Additionally, it opens up the possibility of maximizing the first product in your routine. Not only is it the first layer, in full and direct contact with the skin, it's also a product you use in high amounts, so theoretically it's possible to read specific benefits by simply changing formulas.

This has sparked an odyssey for my perfect 7Skin toner, as the Hanyul is not ideal. The texture is too thick and serum-like, and becomes quite sticky when layered, plus it features alcohol rather high up on the ingredients list. On the other hand, the combination of niacinamide, ferments, and humectants is effective at brightening and keeping the skin hydrated. Like any good first essence, it immediately perks up dull, tired-looking skin.

INGREDIENTS (2017 FORMULATION)    water, alcohol, PEG/PPG-16/6 copolymer, glycereth-26, butylene glycol, niacinamide, monascus/rice ferment, lactobacillus/soybean ferment extract, saccharomyces/barley seed ferment filtrate, sodium hyaluronate, angelica acutiloba root extract, cnidium officinale root extract, soybean seed extract, glycerin, glyceryl polymethacrylate, dextrin, bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane, adenosine, ethylhexylglycerin, carbomer, theobroma cacao extract, tromethamine, PPG-13-decyltetradeceth-24, disodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol, fragrance

The fragrance is a pleasant powdery floral, with hints of rice wine. The shape of the bottle is a nod to the traditional clay pots (옹기) used in the fermentation of foods in Korean cuisine, but in translucent mauve ombré glass—aesthetically, neither here nor there for me. Additionally, Hanyul is everywhere in Korea, and Aritaum frequently runs sales on this bestseller: 200mL for ~₩20,000, reasonably priced for someone who ploughs through a bottle a month. The issue is primarily, then, a matter of texture, and the less-than-ideal inclusion of alcohol; it's been formulated this way, I presume, to compensate for the almost sticky, heavy texture of rice extract, and make it more pleasant on the skin. With the positives outweighing the negatives, it's been hard to find better.

These are the products I'd categorize as "niacinamide/ferments-based brightening first essences".
I've accumulated far more: for calming irritation, hydration only, ceramide-based. -_-'

This is just the beginning. I've got a dozen or so products for the purposes of experimentation and review. Considering the popularity of the 7Skin Method, I have to imagine it has proved equally effective for others when dealing with dehydration, and just as tricky finding the right toner for the job. Hopefully I'll find something that answers this burning desire for the perfectly layerable, brightening, hydrating, soothing, but not-too-pricey-and-hard-to-get water-based solution.


AFTERTHOUGHTS

    HANYUL Rice Essential Skin Softener

• PROS: Accessibility and price point (within Korea). Aesthetics are a non-issue. Multiple ferments; brightens well. In spite of the alcohol, I find it hydrating and not drying; likely the alcohol was deemed necessary to cut through the humectants and fermented rice extract.
• CONS: Texture is thick, and becomes sticky after one layer. Alcohol. Fragrance.
• UNIQUE FEATURES: Jeon JiHyun sparked a craze for this product. It's the jack-of-all-trades, master-of-none product so far in my search for the ideal 7Skin Toner.

DETAILS
Hanyul is 150mL for $35, available at Aritaum, 200mL for ₩37,000, but I frequently find it on sale.

What Is A 'Neutral' Product?

I'm a firm believer in the psychological pleasures of beauty products. Sometimes, I want to treat myself to a luxurious product, to satisfy the lust we often feel as consumers for something new, something extravagant, something precious, something rare and hard-to-find. Often, however, I lose focus and the once-exciting treasure is not sought out for repurchase. Over the years I've come to the conclusion that when it comes to high-turnover products like skincare—quickly used up, quickly repurchased—I prefer my most-loved essential products to be boring. Neutral.

If I had no other skincare, I would be fine. I do have more, of course. =)

If your aim is simply to take good care of your skin, then finding a core routine of reliable products is all that's required. If you enjoy experimentation, you still need neutral products to fall back on, as a point of comparison for your skin's preferences. My 'neutral' cleanser is not my Tata Harper Refreshing Cleanser, and I know this, in spite of its heavenly fragrance of grapefruit and neroli, the creamy warm pink hue, the gentle purification from pink clay and willow bark, the bottle like summer sunshine filtered by a tree spreading its green branches above you; it's my Bioderma Atoderm Ultra-Nourishing Shower Oil, which you can buy in a colossal 1L size and offers little in the way of romance. It's a cleanser, in sum. A very good, simple formula, and an economical option for dry, sensitive skin. This isn't to claim that one is superior to the other—in fact both feature coco-glucoside as their main detergent—there's room in our skincare routines, surely, for both frivolous luxuries as well as boring, utilitarian products. However, for a routine to work, it does need to be built on a foundation of neutral products. The option to experiment is always there; it's harder to find the basics.

Some signs that a product is a neutral product:

• FORMULA   Typically (but not always) a simple, minimalist formula designed for most skin types including sensitive. Or, a product that you know well, and can be sure of how your skin reacts.
• PERFORMANCE   Reliable to the point it no longer requires much thought to use. It's always in the background, performing faithfully. Ingredients lists are a start, but they don't necessarily determine how they perform on the skin, so this differs somewhat from formula.
• LIFESTYLE   Integrates well into your routine and plays well with other products. Often this is where texture comes into play.
• ACCESSIBILITY   Skincare, unlike eyeshadow palettes, are high-turnover products and require frequent repurchases. Personally, I love the thrill of the hunt when it comes to experimenting, but strangely loathe the hassle when making repurchases. As such, I prefer to buy within the domestic market (currently South Korea). The beauty industry is rife with copycats, so you can often find products that are similar to each other; for example I don't necessarily consider Heimish All Clean Balm the best makeup-removing initial cleanse on the market, but it is a good product that I can find easily without too much expense.
• PRICE POINT   Again, because skincare tends to be high turnover, the pricing becomes a factor when it comes time to repurchase. For me, that's between ₩10,000–₩50,000, depending on its kind.
• CONSUMER HABITS   If you've repurchased it or have a stockpile of backups, that's an obvious sign. It's not always possible to avoid ordering online; something critical like sunscreen or a specialized treatment may prove more elusive when it comes to finding the right formula.
• COMPETITION   It becomes a standard by which you measure other products. If you enjoy experimenting with skincare, that core routine gives you clarity: drop after drop, Product X was enjoyable, but at the end of the bottle (or jar), you think, "Well, it's not quite as nice as old faithful Product Y." This makes dabbling in luxury products less burdensome, in my opinion, since you are not looking for commitment.

Most of my own 'neutral' products are fairly bland but well made utilitarian products and, though best suited for drier skin, I can recommend without much reservation: Bioderma Atoderm Ultra-Nourishing Shower Oil, Bifesta Eye Make Up Remover, Heimish All Clean Balm, Freeplus Moist Care Lotion 2, Etude House Soon Jung 10-Free Moist Emulsion/Atopalm MLE Cream/Huxley More Than Moist, and Sun Bears Super Strong Plus SPF50/PA++++. One is a treatment; Paula's Choice 1% Retinol is fairly aggressive, so this is one to consider carefully before introducing it into your routine.

Routines: Hydration: Fall 2017 (plus an overview of the 7Skin Method)

There are several ways to deal with the common issue of dehydration; for me, the most effective method has proved to be layering, rather than depending on any single product to combat dehydration on its own. Years ago I discovered Asian toners—aka skins, aka lotions, aka softeners, aka essences, aka waters—humectant-based solutions that draw in moisture from your serums and creams, and never looked back. Even with a well formulated moisturizer, there is a significant boost in hydration if it's layered over a softener*; to me, a softener is a liquid moisturizer, lighter in weight even than a serum, designed with the primary objective of providing hydration.

Over the past year, the 7Skin trend has taken the Korean beauty community by storm: applying a softener, seven times, then sealed with a moisturizer. Instead of the a ten-step routine, only two products are required. If one layer of softener improves dehydration, then how much more hydration from seven layers?

It's certainly effective, I can vouch for that. The 7Skin operates on the same principle as a sheet mask; this is not a few drops of softener patted in delicately, but a full saturation of the epidermis with moisture and humectants. As such, the formula must be one that your skin finds agreeable: I prefer ones with niacinamide because it benefits the barrier function of sensitive skin. The texture should absorb readily into the skin, or you'll spend ages layering and layering. Additionally, keep in mind you'll go through product fast, roughly a bottle a month; if you find repurchases of SKII very dear, it's not ideal for the 7Skin Method. My personal favorites, though I'm often trying out new candidates, are Freeplus Moist Care Lotion 2, a neutral alcohol-free, fragrance-free formula designed for sensitive skin, and Hanyul Rice Essential Skin Softener, which packs more of a punch, a richer serum-textured softener with a noticeable brightening effect. Which I use depends on my skin's needs, and whether my skincare that day is going to be neutral or aggressive.

The 7Skin Method leaves your skin so well hydrated, extra moisturizer becomes almost superfluous; in the warmer months, I use serums or face oils instead. For extra hydration, I use the infamous Estée Lauder ANR knockoff, Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Science Activator Ampoule, a good basic all-rounder serum. For the well conditioned glow of a face oil, I like Clarins, either Blue Orchid or Double Serum. Once winter hits I do need to layer on a proper moisturizer, and long-established habit still prefers a heavy-duty occlusive cream—I am particularly fond of Huxley Cream: More Than Moist—but it's not the desperate search for moisture it once was. Less fancy, but a perennial favorite when my skin requires something bland and comforting: Atopalm MLE Intensive Moisturizing Cream. While I don't believe a dedicated eye cream is necessary, as far as the appropriate texture goes (moisturizing enough to soften fine lines yet absorbs readily before concealer) I do like Hanyul Baek Hwa Goh Intensive Care Eye Cream. If you still find yourself starved of moisture, a sleeping mask, a extra-occlusive product to seal everything in, is a viable option as a final layer.

One caveat: 7Skin is something of a misnomer; 3Skin is typically enough for me, especially with the Hanyul's thicker texture. What's crucial is not that one follow instructions to the letter and apply seven layers of product, but rather that your skin reaches that saturation point. You can feel it; the skin springs back like a steak cooked rare. Some days I need more, some less.

If you still find yourself dehydrated, a humidifier might be a welcome addition during the colder months. I also always start my skincare on damp skin, post-cleansing, as the first step in building layers of moisture.

DETAILS
Hanyul Rice Essential Skin Softener is 150mL for $35 at Aritaum.com, 200mL is ₩36,000 (Korea only).
Freeplus Moist Care Lotion 2 is 130mL for $27 at Sasa.
Missha Time Revolution Night Repairis 40mL for $36 and 50mL for $49 at Missha.
Clarins Blue Orchid is 30mL for $58; Double Serum is $89 for 30mL and $122 for 50mL.
Huxley Cream: More Than Moist is 50mL for $48 at Glow Recipe. I bought mine at Cree'mare for ₩38,000.
Atopalm MLE is 100mL for $42 at Lovely Skin.
Hanyul Baek Hwa Goh eye cream is 25mL for $59 at Aritaum.

*My preferred term, because it's the least likely to cause confusion.

Routines: Cleansing: Fall 2017

Theoretically the simplest part of my routine. And yet I always end up with so many cleansers.

As I've explained in this brief overview, my skin's inadequacy as a barrier is its most salient characteristic: thin, low sebum, dehydrated under arid conditions, and frequently irritated. On top of the customary avoidance of known irritants, what meager acid mantle I've got is easily disrupted, restricting me to minimally invasive formulations, yet not so emollient (most balm cleansers) the residue requires a washcloth. You'd be surprised at what my skin considers aggressive. Nearly anything that foams, the texture of washcloths, a hot shower, even micellar water on cotton wool can be an issue at times.

Fortunately, as I break out rarely, the tactics required to minimize the potential for congestion and acne are largely unnecessary. I also wear very little base makeup, which bypasses the need for intensive cleansing later.

Nevertheless, there are still cleansers my skin tolerates without issue. Well formulated basics, like cleanser, are readily available for not too much trouble or expense, and I most frequently default to the cheapest: Bioderma Atoderm Ultra-Nourishing Shower Oil. In spite of the name, it's a simple, extremely mild detergent-based (not oil) cleanser, barely lathering, with a fragrance reminiscent of sweet peas. It's not an exceptional cleanser in regards to makeup removal, merely adequate; this is what I would consider a 'neutral' cleanser, a reliable basic around which you build the rest of your routine, according to your needs. Everyone needs one. For me, a good cleanser is negatively defined: it's not harsh, it doesn't leave any residue, it doesn't reek of perfume, it's not expensive, but it leaves my skin clean. From time to time, I will play with something more indulgent, purely for the fun of trying out something new, but it's always a comfort to know this has my back.

I employ no elaborate techniques when cleansing: rinse face, apply cleanser, rinse hands, massage gently until you can feel the grime lift off the skin, rinse. Occasionally I do require heavy-duty removal for waterproof sunscreen and makeup, and like most people, for the sake of thoroughness (and gentleness), I find it ideal to break up the process of cleansing into multiple steps. Since I wear waterproof mascara, I soak cotton wool in Bifesta Eye Make Up Remover in order to first dissolve the curl-holding-but-extremely-tenacious formula. Afterwards, I may do a single-cleanse with a neutral cleanser, or I might double-cleanse with micellar water or the eucalyptus-scented, aptly named Heimish All Clean Balm, a solid cleansing oil and therefore a proper makeup remover.

On standby are two products that neatly illustrate how skincare often answers psychological needs rather than utilitarian: Hanyul Ja Cho Oil Cleansing Balm, a non-emulsifying emollient balm, and Tata Harper Refreshing Cleanser, a luxurious cleansing milk. They leave my skin feeling happy, but they don't feel quite right as a daily cleanser. The Hanyul in particular leaves my skin looking clear and refined, but cannot be worked without a washcloth, so I save it for 'spa days', when I'm in the mood for a facial massage.

DETAILS
Bioderma Atoderm Ultra Nourishing Shower Oil is available in 100mL, 200mL, and 1L sizes at Feel Unique for roughly $8-20. I bought mine at Olive Young for ₩22,000.
Bifesta Eye Make Up Remover is 145mL, available at sasa.com for $6.80. I bought mine at Olive Young, on sale two for ₩12,000.
Heimish All Clean Balm is 120mL, available on Amazon. I bought mine at Åland for ₩18,000.
Hanyul Ja Cho Oil Cleansing Balm is 60mL, available at Aritaum. I bought mine (on sale) at Aritaum for ₩19,000.
Tata Harper Refreshing Cleanser is $78 for 125mL, available at Nordstrom. I bought mine at Cult Beauty for £58.33.