Lookbook: Faded Roses

Here is my current everyday look. Since I typically favor grey-toned pastels and bold lips, so this is my idea of a dusty toned-down look for autumn, rather than a neutral look. To balance out the earthy tones, it's centered around Bobbi Brown Blush 29 Nude Pink, a pastel violet-pink that oxidizes on my skin into a deeper pink that closely resembles an old discontinued favorite, Becca Wild Orchid. The lipstick I coordinate most frequently with it is Clé de Peau Lipstick 09 Silk Thread, a soft rose with mauve undertones. On me, it's a bog-standard neutral lip, but I nevertheless appreciate the supremely comfortable, balmy formula. I'm most comfortable in a bold lip, so they're still in rotation: Armani Lip Magnet #501 Eccentrico, an ultra-flourescent pink that's probably visible from space, and Missha Signature Dewy Rouge RD04 Scarlet Lady, a glossy pink-red sufficiently muted down that it feels appropriately autumnal.

As you can see, Nude Pink oxidizes significantly on my skin. But!... Into a color I like.

I've gone brighter on the cheeks mainly to offset the simple wash of brown eyeshadow on my lids. No one's more surprised than I am to find how much I like Aritaum Mono Eyes in M18 Classic Shadow, an ashy greyed matte taupe, but I find I can get away with this because it has absolutely no warmth. It could easily double for contouring.

The rest is finished off by bushy brows, courtesy of Bourjois Brow Design 04 Brun, which yields a fluffy and dramatic brow, moreso than the infamous Boy Brow, and extra definition at the lashline by tightlining. The result is an effortless, almost natural-looking smoky eye (if I didn't wear mascara, I think it would pass for natural), so to ramp up the smoulder a notch, Clinique Cream Shaper For Eyes 103 Egyptian, green-gold reflects scattered through a dilute charcoal kohl. Or, because my idea of a seasonal look tends to be variations on a theme, a touch of Addiction The Eyeshadow 052 Midnight Drive lifts the matte taupe ever so slightly and takes it in a more polished, colorful direction. I like the freshness of a pastel against the more conventional autumnal tones.


AFTERTHOUGHTS
I love the color on Bobbi Brown Nude Pink, but I wish the texture was less choppy.
Clé de Peau Silk Thread was bought in Japan, almost as a souvenir; otherwise, an expensive lipstick in a boring shade.
Love both Armani Lip Magnets and the Missha Signature Dewy Rouge formulae, however.
I wish I knew which MAC shadow Aritaum Classic Shadow is duping.
Might have to go back to Boy Brow. Bourjois Brow Design is finicky to apply: too big a brush.
KBeauty was obsessed with Clinique Egyptian several years ago, and that's why I thought to buy it.
I rarely wear colorful eye looks these days, but I still like to collect shadows, especially when they're as pretty as Addiction Midnight Drive.

Routines: Hydration: Fall 2017 (plus an overview of the 7Skin Method)

There are several ways to deal with the common issue of dehydration; for me, the most effective method has proved to be layering, rather than depending on any single product to combat dehydration on its own. Years ago I discovered Asian toners—aka skins, aka lotions, aka softeners, aka essences, aka waters—humectant-based solutions that draw in moisture from your serums and creams, and never looked back. Even with a well formulated moisturizer, there is a significant boost in hydration if it's layered over a softener*; to me, a softener is a liquid moisturizer, lighter in weight even than a serum, designed with the primary objective of providing hydration.

Over the past year, the 7Skin trend has taken the Korean beauty community by storm: applying a softener, seven times, then sealed with a moisturizer. Instead of the a ten-step routine, only two products are required. If one layer of softener improves dehydration, then how much more hydration from seven layers?

It's certainly effective, I can vouch for that. The 7Skin operates on the same principle as a sheet mask; this is not a few drops of softener patted in delicately, but a full saturation of the epidermis with moisture and humectants. As such, the formula must be one that your skin finds agreeable: I prefer ones with niacinamide because it benefits the barrier function of sensitive skin. The texture should absorb readily into the skin, or you'll spend ages layering and layering. Additionally, keep in mind you'll go through product fast, roughly a bottle a month; if you find repurchases of SKII very dear, it's not ideal for the 7Skin Method. My personal favorites, though I'm often trying out new candidates, are Freeplus Moist Care Lotion 2, a neutral alcohol-free, fragrance-free formula designed for sensitive skin, and Hanyul Rice Essential Skin Softener, which packs more of a punch, a richer serum-textured softener with a noticeable brightening effect. Which I use depends on my skin's needs, and whether my skincare that day is going to be neutral or aggressive.

The 7Skin Method leaves your skin so well hydrated, extra moisturizer becomes almost superfluous; in the warmer months, I use serums or face oils instead. For extra hydration, I use the infamous Estée Lauder ANR knockoff, Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Science Activator Ampoule, a good basic all-rounder serum. For the well conditioned glow of a face oil, I like Clarins, either Blue Orchid or Double Serum. Once winter hits I do need to layer on a proper moisturizer, and long-established habit still prefers a heavy-duty occlusive cream—I am particularly fond of Huxley Cream: More Than Moist—but it's not the desperate search for moisture it once was. Less fancy, but a perennial favorite when my skin requires something bland and comforting: Atopalm MLE Intensive Moisturizing Cream. While I don't believe a dedicated eye cream is necessary, as far as the appropriate texture goes (moisturizing enough to soften fine lines yet absorbs readily before concealer) I do like Hanyul Baek Hwa Goh Intensive Care Eye Cream. If you still find yourself starved of moisture, a sleeping mask, a extra-occlusive product to seal everything in, is a viable option as a final layer.

One caveat: 7Skin is something of a misnomer; 3Skin is typically enough for me, especially with the Hanyul's thicker texture. What's crucial is not that one follow instructions to the letter and apply seven layers of product, but rather that your skin reaches that saturation point. You can feel it; the skin springs back like a steak cooked rare. Some days I need more, some less.

If you still find yourself dehydrated, a humidifier might be a welcome addition during the colder months. I also always start my skincare on damp skin, post-cleansing, as the first step in building layers of moisture.

DETAILS
Hanyul Rice Essential Skin Softener is 150mL for $35 at Aritaum.com, 200mL is ₩36,000 (Korea only).
Freeplus Moist Care Lotion 2 is 130mL for $27 at Sasa.
Missha Time Revolution Night Repairis 40mL for $36 and 50mL for $49 at Missha.
Clarins Blue Orchid is 30mL for $58; Double Serum is $89 for 30mL and $122 for 50mL.
Huxley Cream: More Than Moist is 50mL for $48 at Glow Recipe. I bought mine at Cree'mare for ₩38,000.
Atopalm MLE is 100mL for $42 at Lovely Skin.
Hanyul Baek Hwa Goh eye cream is 25mL for $59 at Aritaum.

*My preferred term, because it's the least likely to cause confusion.