Counter Culture: spotlight on

The one that started it all. The Hanyul Rice Essential Skin Softener was my gateway to the 7Skin Method.

What I've discovered is that, with sufficient hydration, my skin tends to sort itself out. Excepting the arid winter months, I've become less drier and sensitive than before. (Incorporating niacinamide, with its barrier-repairing, ceramide-production inducing, photocarcinogenesis-inhibiting, melanin-formation-suppressing, anti-inflammatory, etcetera functions, has also helped enormously.) It may take a lot of layering to get there, but 7Skin works. Dehydration is better addressed by several light layers than a single heavy one, though I've never found it necessary to go full seven layers. Additionally, it opens up the possibility of maximizing the first product in your routine. Not only is it the first layer, in full and direct contact with the skin, it's also a product you use in high amounts, so theoretically it's possible to read specific benefits by simply changing formulas.

This has sparked an odyssey for my perfect 7Skin toner, as the Hanyul is not ideal. The texture is too thick and serum-like, and becomes quite sticky when layered, plus it features alcohol rather high up on the ingredients list. On the other hand, the combination of niacinamide, ferments, and humectants is effective at brightening and keeping the skin hydrated. Like any good first essence, it immediately perks up dull, tired-looking skin.

niacinamide

monascus/rice ferment

lactobacillus/soybean ferment extract

saccharomyces/barley seed ferment filtrate

sodium hyaluronate

angelica acutiloba root extract

cnidium officinale root extract

glycerin

adenosine

The fragrance is a pleasant powdery floral, with hints of rice wine. The shape of the bottle is a nod to the traditional clay pots (옹기) used in the fermentation of foods in Korean cuisine, but in translucent mauve ombré glass—aesthetically, neither here nor there for me. Additionally, Hanyul is everywhere in Korea, and Aritaum frequently runs sales on this bestseller: 200mL for ~₩20,000, reasonably priced for someone who ploughs through a bottle a month. The issue is primarily, then, a matter of texture, and the less-than-ideal inclusion of alcohol; it's been formulated this way, I presume, to compensate for the almost sticky, heavy texture of rice extract, and make it more pleasant on the skin. With the positives outweighing the negatives, it's been hard to find better.

These are the products I'd categorize as "niacinamide/ferments-based brightening first essences".
I've accumulated far more: for calming irritation, hydration only, ceramide-based. -_-'

This is just the beginning. I've got a dozen or so products for the purposes of experimentation and review. Considering the popularity of the 7Skin Method, I have to imagine it has proved equally effective for others when dealing with dehydration, and just as tricky finding the right toner for the job. Hopefully I'll find something that answers this burning desire for the perfectly layerable, brightening, hydrating, soothing, but not-too-pricey-and-hard-to-get water-based solution.

AFTERTHOUGHTS

HANYUL Rice Essential Skin Softener

PROS: Accessibility and price point (within Korea). Aesthetics are a non-issue. Multiple ferments; brightens well. In spite of the alcohol, I find it hydrating and not drying; likely the alcohol was deemed necessary to cut through the humectants and fermented rice extract.
CONS: Texture is thick, and becomes sticky after one layer. Alcohol. Fragrance.
UNIQUE FEATURES: Jeon JiHyun sparked a craze for this product. It's the jack-of-all-trades, master-of-none product so far in my search for the ideal 7Skin Toner.

DETAILS
Hanyul is 150mL for $35, available at Aritaum, 200mL for ₩37,000, but I frequently find it on sale.

Spotlight On: Hanyul Rice Essential Skin Softener