Routines: Treatment: Fall 2017

One category of products is conspicuously absent in my routine: and those are actives* (with the exception of sunscreen).

At the present moment my skincare is largely dedicated to maintenance and care. While I do break up cleansing and moisturizing into multiple steps, my routine is ultimately nothing more than maintenance. Currently I have neither a no-nonsense minimalist routine nor an overflow of trendy products: some are neutral basic formulations, others are psychologically indulgent luxuries. A little faff is okay, in my estimation. I find that if you've established a core routine of reliable and neutral basics, you can experiment a little outside of products that offer value for money, conservative skincare practices (such as avoiding plant extracts), and those ingredients backed by clinical research. But, again with the exception of sunscreen, these products will not counter the inevitability of genetics and time.

The only active-led, anti-aging product in my arsenal (again, except for sunscreen, if only to reinforce its importance) is Paula's Choice CLINICAL 1% Retinol Treatment. I use this around my eyes, where the first signs occur; for whatever reason, my skin does not find retinoids overly irritating, not even tretinoin, so I find a 1% retinol offers just enough punch to use as an anti-aging eye cream. Additionally, I've been pumping it out first onto a hyperpigmentation spot on the back of my hand—because why not—and I am delighted to report that the spot has started to fade. I would also like to incorporate a LAA serum underneath my sunscreen, since antioxidants and sun protection go hand in hand, but the combination of a niacinamide-heavy routine** and lack of access to a stable formulation in Korea hasn't made vitamin C valid as an option. I typically don't have issues with my skin outside of sensitivity, and since actives have a higher probably of triggering a reaction, a retinol is all I've got. I dare say, however, it's a heavy-hitter.

I do not use a dedicated niacinamide-led treatment—at least, there's no information on percentages for any of the products I use—but it is scattered all throughout my routine for its ameliorative effect on my easily upset, easily dehydrated skin. Under the influence of niacinamide, my skin has normalized and become far less reactive than previously, which is my primary concern. Niacinamide boosts radiance and evens out skin tone to boot—always a bonus.

Occasionally my skin has a meltdown. It reacts far less frequently now that it's frequently dosed with niacinamide, but it still happens. In which case I scale back to the bare minimum of Bioderma Atoderm cleanser and one of my favorite discoveries in Korea, Dr. Jart Cicapair, available in both serum and cream. I layer them generously, bunker down, and wait the irritation out. It's very rare that you will find products that will speed recovery and healing; Cicapair is one of the few that does.

Due to having paper-skin to begin with, there is no separate category for exfoliation. Since it addresses a multiplicity of issues from congestion to hyperpigmentation to acne, I would classify exfoliation as treatment. However, I don't exfoliate. It does me far more harm than good.


DETAILS
Paula's Choice 1% Retinol is 30mL for $56, available at Paula's Choice. I haven't replaced mine yet, but RRP in Korea is ₩77,000.
Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Serum is 30mL for $46, available at Sephora. I bought mine at Olive Young for ₩38,000.
Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Cream is 50mL for $48, available at Sephora. I bought mine at Olive Young for ₩45,000.

*It's possible to classify any number of ingredients as actives, but by this I mean potent actives with benefits and side effects on the skin beyond simple cleansing/moisturizing, thus requiring special handling in terms of formulation and application. A cream is a cream at the end of the day; an LAA serum requires more research to incorporate optimally into your routine.
**I have read that the research claiming LAA and niacinamide cannot be used simultaneously is outdated. However, as I don't have access to a proper stabilized concentration of vitamin C product at the moment, the issue is moot.

Routines: Sun Protection: Fall 2017

The best sunscreen is one that you will actually use.

This is tricky. As much as I want the protection PA++++ offers, like most people I have trouble finding a sunscreen that strikes a balance between texturally acceptable and non-irritating. I am particularly reactive to UV filters, so when I find one my skin can tolerate, only then is it possible to consider whether the texture is tolerable. Something like Avène Very High Protection Mineral Fluid SPF50+/PA++++ is gentle and provides the UVA protection that's required, but like most all-physical sunscreens the suffocating feel on the skin is hard to tolerate and, regardless of its fitness for my skin, I will end up applying too little or, worse, avoiding it entirely.

Luckily, I've got one that works, with enough stockpiled for a nuclear winter: Sun Bears Super Strong Plus SPF50+/PA++++. I would not pretend it is the best texture out there, but in order for a sunscreen not to be irritating on my skin, a higher proportion of physical filters—and the corresponding sacrifice in texture—is necessary. An absolutely invisible sunscreen is not realistically within the realm of possibility for me, so I'm happy that Sun Bears is pleasant enough for everyday use, and like most fluid sunscreens there's enough silicone to double as a primer, and the scent is faint and inoffensive. The zinc oxide is a tad drying, but over the multiple strata of skincare typically applied onto my skin, I can hardly sense it. For all the things it is not (suffocatingly heavy, greasy, dead matte, stinky, irritating, alcohol-laden, prohibitively expensive, hard to apply), this serves as my neutral sunscreen.

It's amazing how sensitive this balance can be, how individually determined. A sunscreen that's even a little off loses significantly in terms of use value. Something like Too Cool For School Mild Cica Sun Lotion SPF50+/PA++++ manages nearly everything, but stumbles at the last when it comes to finish: it's simply too dead a matte. And yet, this would be great on an oilier skin. On the other hand, Anessa Perfect UV Sunscreen Aqua Booster SPF50/PA++++ offers the silky texture of dreams (though it does sit strangely under makeup), but is too harsh for my skin.

Among the trickle of PA++++ sunscreens on the Korean market, I've had better luck with Laneige Watery Sun Cream SPF50+/PA++++ and Huxley Sun Cream: Stay Sun Safe SPF50+/PA++++. Neither presents any serious issues, but they're both somewhat heavier and considerably pricier than the perennially reliable Sun Bears, so neither suffices as a replacement, though the boost in moisture might be nice for winter. We'll see. I am still in the process of testing.

N.B. All of these products, with the exception of the Anessa, leaves a white cast. I'm fair-skinned so personally this is not an issue.

DETAILS
Avène Mineral Fluid is 40mL for $16, available at Cocoon Center. I bought mine at Olive Young for ₩32,000.
Sun Bears Super Strong Plus is 28mL for $3.50, available at Sasa.
Too Cool For School Mild Cica Sun Lotion is 100mL for ₩23,000. I bought mine in store.
Anessa Perfect UV Sunscreen Aqua Booster is 60mL for $30, available at Sasa. I bought mine at Watson's for ₩36,000.
Laneige Watery Sun Cream is 50mL for $27, available at Aritaum.
Huxley Sun Cream: Stay Sun Safe is 35mL for ₩28,000. I bought mine at Chicor.

Routines: Hydration: Fall 2017 (plus an overview of the 7Skin Method)

There are several ways to deal with the common issue of dehydration; for me, the most effective method has proved to be layering, rather than depending on any single product to combat dehydration on its own. Years ago I discovered Asian toners—aka skins, aka lotions, aka softeners, aka essences, aka waters—humectant-based solutions that draw in moisture from your serums and creams, and never looked back. Even with a well formulated moisturizer, there is a significant boost in hydration if it's layered over a softener*; to me, a softener is a liquid moisturizer, lighter in weight even than a serum, designed with the primary objective of providing hydration.

Over the past year, the 7Skin trend has taken the Korean beauty community by storm: applying a softener, seven times, then sealed with a moisturizer. Instead of the a ten-step routine, only two products are required. If one layer of softener improves dehydration, then how much more hydration from seven layers?

It's certainly effective, I can vouch for that. The 7Skin operates on the same principle as a sheet mask; this is not a few drops of softener patted in delicately, but a full saturation of the epidermis with moisture and humectants. As such, the formula must be one that your skin finds agreeable: I prefer ones with niacinamide because it benefits the barrier function of sensitive skin. The texture should absorb readily into the skin, or you'll spend ages layering and layering. Additionally, keep in mind you'll go through product fast, roughly a bottle a month; if you find repurchases of SKII very dear, it's not ideal for the 7Skin Method. My personal favorites, though I'm often trying out new candidates, are Freeplus Moist Care Lotion 2, a neutral alcohol-free, fragrance-free formula designed for sensitive skin, and Hanyul Rice Essential Skin Softener, which packs more of a punch, a richer serum-textured softener with a noticeable brightening effect. Which I use depends on my skin's needs, and whether my skincare that day is going to be neutral or aggressive.

The 7Skin Method leaves your skin so well hydrated, extra moisturizer becomes almost superfluous; in the warmer months, I use serums or face oils instead. For extra hydration, I use the infamous Estée Lauder ANR knockoff, Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Science Activator Ampoule, a good basic all-rounder serum. For the well conditioned glow of a face oil, I like Clarins, either Blue Orchid or Double Serum. Once winter hits I do need to layer on a proper moisturizer, and long-established habit still prefers a heavy-duty occlusive cream—I am particularly fond of Huxley Cream: More Than Moist—but it's not the desperate search for moisture it once was. Less fancy, but a perennial favorite when my skin requires something bland and comforting: Atopalm MLE Intensive Moisturizing Cream. While I don't believe a dedicated eye cream is necessary, as far as the appropriate texture goes (moisturizing enough to soften fine lines yet absorbs readily before concealer) I do like Hanyul Baek Hwa Goh Intensive Care Eye Cream. If you still find yourself starved of moisture, a sleeping mask, a extra-occlusive product to seal everything in, is a viable option as a final layer.

One caveat: 7Skin is something of a misnomer; 3Skin is typically enough for me, especially with the Hanyul's thicker texture. What's crucial is not that one follow instructions to the letter and apply seven layers of product, but rather that your skin reaches that saturation point. You can feel it; the skin springs back like a steak cooked rare. Some days I need more, some less.

If you still find yourself dehydrated, a humidifier might be a welcome addition during the colder months. I also always start my skincare on damp skin, post-cleansing, as the first step in building layers of moisture.

DETAILS
Hanyul Rice Essential Skin Softener is 150mL for $35 at Aritaum.com, 200mL is ₩36,000 (Korea only).
Freeplus Moist Care Lotion 2 is 130mL for $27 at Sasa.
Missha Time Revolution Night Repairis 40mL for $36 and 50mL for $49 at Missha.
Clarins Blue Orchid is 30mL for $58; Double Serum is $89 for 30mL and $122 for 50mL.
Huxley Cream: More Than Moist is 50mL for $48 at Glow Recipe. I bought mine at Cree'mare for ₩38,000.
Atopalm MLE is 100mL for $42 at Lovely Skin.
Hanyul Baek Hwa Goh eye cream is 25mL for $59 at Aritaum.

*My preferred term, because it's the least likely to cause confusion.

Routines: Cleansing: Fall 2017

Theoretically the simplest part of my routine. And yet I always end up with so many cleansers.

As I've explained in this brief overview, my skin's inadequacy as a barrier is its most salient characteristic: thin, low sebum, dehydrated under arid conditions, and frequently irritated. On top of the customary avoidance of known irritants, what meager acid mantle I've got is easily disrupted, restricting me to minimally invasive formulations, yet not so emollient (most balm cleansers) the residue requires a washcloth. You'd be surprised at what my skin considers aggressive. Nearly anything that foams, the texture of washcloths, a hot shower, even micellar water on cotton wool can be an issue at times.

Fortunately, as I break out rarely, the tactics required to minimize the potential for congestion and acne are largely unnecessary. I also wear very little base makeup, which bypasses the need for intensive cleansing later.

Nevertheless, there are still cleansers my skin tolerates without issue. Well formulated basics, like cleanser, are readily available for not too much trouble or expense, and I most frequently default to the cheapest: Bioderma Atoderm Ultra-Nourishing Shower Oil. In spite of the name, it's a simple, extremely mild detergent-based (not oil) cleanser, barely lathering, with a fragrance reminiscent of sweet peas. It's not an exceptional cleanser in regards to makeup removal, merely adequate; this is what I would consider a 'neutral' cleanser, a reliable basic around which you build the rest of your routine, according to your needs. Everyone needs one. For me, a good cleanser is negatively defined: it's not harsh, it doesn't leave any residue, it doesn't reek of perfume, it's not expensive, but it leaves my skin clean. From time to time, I will play with something more indulgent, purely for the fun of trying out something new, but it's always a comfort to know this has my back.

I employ no elaborate techniques when cleansing: rinse face, apply cleanser, rinse hands, massage gently until you can feel the grime lift off the skin, rinse. Occasionally I do require heavy-duty removal for waterproof sunscreen and makeup, and like most people, for the sake of thoroughness (and gentleness), I find it ideal to break up the process of cleansing into multiple steps. Since I wear waterproof mascara, I soak cotton wool in Bifesta Eye Make Up Remover in order to first dissolve the curl-holding-but-extremely-tenacious formula. Afterwards, I may do a single-cleanse with a neutral cleanser, or I might double-cleanse with micellar water or the eucalyptus-scented, aptly named Heimish All Clean Balm, a solid cleansing oil and therefore a proper makeup remover.

On standby are two products that neatly illustrate how skincare often answers psychological needs rather than utilitarian: Hanyul Ja Cho Oil Cleansing Balm, a non-emulsifying emollient balm, and Tata Harper Refreshing Cleanser, a luxurious cleansing milk. They leave my skin feeling happy, but they don't feel quite right as a daily cleanser. The Hanyul in particular leaves my skin looking clear and refined, but cannot be worked without a washcloth, so I save it for 'spa days', when I'm in the mood for a facial massage.

DETAILS
Bioderma Atoderm Ultra Nourishing Shower Oil is available in 100mL, 200mL, and 1L sizes at Feel Unique for roughly $8-20. I bought mine at Olive Young for ₩22,000.
Bifesta Eye Make Up Remover is 145mL, available at sasa.com for $6.80. I bought mine at Olive Young, on sale two for ₩12,000.
Heimish All Clean Balm is 120mL, available on Amazon. I bought mine at Åland for ₩18,000.
Hanyul Ja Cho Oil Cleansing Balm is 60mL, available at Aritaum. I bought mine (on sale) at Aritaum for ₩19,000.
Tata Harper Refreshing Cleanser is $78 for 125mL, available at Nordstrom. I bought mine at Cult Beauty for £58.33.