An Introduction to My Skin

Paper-thin and intolerant, my skin's most dominant characteristic is its sensitivity. It's dry, but not at such an extremity I struggle to control it, merely governing a preference for mild cleansers and rich creams. Dehydration varies seasonally; without precautions, the deep of winter can be brutal, but it practically absorbs moisture from the air on a hot, humid day. Acne and congestion is virtually non-existent. Diet doesn't adversely affect it. Outside of its tendency to react to everything—heat, sunshine, dust, abrasion, fresh fruit, stress, triggers in cosmetics—my skin is manageable.

This places a considerable limitation on my experiments with skincare, somewhat to my chagrin. I love the rituals of vanity. Women are typically shamed for an interest in beauty, as if our native state of worth should be defined by self-abnegation, and that therefore an appreciation for one's body is degrading. I can think of few indulgences more harmless than a face cream, luxuriously packaged, a private moment in front of the mirror. I'm largely shut out from these pursuits, however. My skin dislikes all but the blandest, boring-est skincare, and as long as I don't provoke it with too many ingredients, it generally minds itself. In truth, skin this thin, though a hassle to live with, looks good: fine textured and almost translucent. I expect the reason why exfoliants, highlighters, retinoids, humectants, and vitamin C reap such popularity is because they mimic the look of thin skin, although it's not as healthy. (Technically, I have an impaired barrier, easily damaged.) There isn't much you can do about sensitive skin, but here are some of the guidelines I follow:

ISOLATE IRRITANTS
Some of mine are aloe vera, cyclomethicone, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP also under suspicion), niacinamide*, avobenzone, glycolic acid, pumpkin, mineral oil, most sulfates, decyl glucoside, most UV filters, most fruits, and calendula. Fragrance-free is preferable, though not always possible.

N.B. As it turns out, niacinamide does wonders to boost the barrier function of my skin. My skin has become far less sensitive to triggers due to a routine that heavily features products dosed with niacinamide, a common trait in skincare of Korean manufacture due to its 'brightening' properties. This has expanded, to a considerable degree, the products my skin can tolerate. It's almost 'normal'.

PRACTICE AVOIDANCE & PATCH-TEST
Make it a habit to scan ingredients lists (cosdna, makeupalley) with every product. If no known irritant is evident, buy samples or minis to test first. Not every irritant provokes a bright red rash. Some reactions are subtle and slow to build, so a patch test makes barely detectable symptoms of irritation more noticeable. Remain vigilant until continued use proves a product to be neutral.

MAINTAIN THE ACID MANTLE
Avoid alkaline cleansers, products closer to the skin's natural, slightly acidic pH are gentler to the skin. Watch over the constantly shifting balance of water and oil, keeping in mind that dehydration and dryness are often separate concerns. Moisturizing may be the most basic (after cleanliness), but it is also the most delicate balance to strike. Often the difficulty of establishing a routine is that, while the conditions specific to your skin differ in their causes, your skincare is required to treat all of them holistically. For example, dryness for me is physiological, a case of hypoproductive sebaceous glands, while my dehydration is largely environmental, fluctuating according to humidity. A product that address dehydration, therefore, cannot ignore the preexisting condition of dryness (and of course sensitivity). This renders the vast majority of serums—those that make vague promises rather than serving as a carrier for a specific active—useless for my skin type, as most lower-weight moisturizers evaporate instantly without emollients to tether them to existence.

WATCH YOUR HABITS
A minimalist formula may not dazzle you at first, but you'll find yourself reaching for it nevertheless, almost without thinking. This is a fair sign it works well for you.

IN CASE OF EMERGENCY
Do nothing. Maybe a damp cool towel (to stave off inflammation), followed by something inert like Vaseline. Personally, I've had great success with Dr. Jart Cicapair; it's the rare product that has any effect on irritation. Most of the time you need to wait it out, until your skin heals.

While most people do not need to exercise this degree of caution, these tactics, because their aim is to keep skin in good temper, are universally applicable. If in doubt of what your skin requires, especially if it's breaking out, treat it as if it were sensitive.

To close this introduction, the products that have earned my fidelity, oft repurchased. My skin openly prefers simple products; I constantly fight the urge to experiment. Predictably, I've scuttled back, at some point or another, with my tail between my legs to every one of these products, burned by my own unfaithfulness. It's a short list: Bioderma, Neutrogena Extra Gentle Cleanser, Hadalabo Gokujyun softener, Paula's Choice RESIST C15, plain argan oil, Atopalm, Dr. Hauschka and Nuxe lip balms. 2017 update: Bifesta Eye Make Up Remover, Atoderm Ultra-Nourishing Shower Oil, Freeplus Moist Care Lotion 2, Huxley More Than Moist Cream, Clarins Blue Orchid oil, Dr. Jart+ Cicapair (both cream and serum), Paula's Choice CLINICAL Retinol 1% (as eye cream), Sun Bears Super Strong Plus SPF 50/PA++++.