Routines: Hydration: Fall 2017 (plus an overview of the 7Skin Method)

There are several ways to deal with the common issue of dehydration; for me, the most effective method has proved to be layering, rather than depending on any single product to combat dehydration on its own. Years ago I discovered Asian toners—aka skins, aka lotions, aka softeners, aka essences, aka waters—humectant-based solutions that draw in moisture from your serums and creams, and never looked back. Even with a well formulated moisturizer, there is a significant boost in hydration if it's layered over a softener*; to me, a softener is a liquid moisturizer, lighter in weight even than a serum, designed with the primary objective of providing hydration.

Over the past year, the 7Skin trend has taken the Korean beauty community by storm: applying a softener, seven times, then sealed with a moisturizer. Instead of the a ten-step routine, only two products are required. If one layer of softener improves dehydration, then how much more hydration from seven layers?

It's certainly effective, I can vouch for that. The 7Skin operates on the same principle as a sheet mask; this is not a few drops of softener patted in delicately, but a full saturation of the epidermis with moisture and humectants. As such, the formula must be one that your skin finds agreeable: I prefer ones with niacinamide because it benefits the barrier function of sensitive skin. The texture should absorb readily into the skin, or you'll spend ages layering and layering. Additionally, keep in mind you'll go through product fast, roughly a bottle a month; if you find repurchases of SKII very dear, it's not ideal for the 7Skin Method. My personal favorites, though I'm often trying out new candidates, are Freeplus Moist Care Lotion 2, a neutral alcohol-free, fragrance-free formula designed for sensitive skin, and Hanyul Rice Essential Skin Softener, which packs more of a punch, a richer serum-textured softener with a noticeable brightening effect. Which I use depends on my skin's needs, and whether my skincare that day is going to be neutral or aggressive.

The 7Skin Method leaves your skin so well hydrated, extra moisturizer becomes almost superfluous; in the warmer months, I use serums or face oils instead. For extra hydration, I use the infamous Estée Lauder ANR knockoff, Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Science Activator Ampoule, a good basic all-rounder serum. For the well conditioned glow of a face oil, I like Clarins, either Blue Orchid or Double Serum. Once winter hits I do need to layer on a proper moisturizer, and long-established habit still prefers a heavy-duty occlusive cream—I am particularly fond of Huxley Cream: More Than Moist—but it's not the desperate search for moisture it once was. Less fancy, but a perennial favorite when my skin requires something bland and comforting: Atopalm MLE Intensive Moisturizing Cream. While I don't believe a dedicated eye cream is necessary, as far as the appropriate texture goes (moisturizing enough to soften fine lines yet absorbs readily before concealer) I do like Hanyul Baek Hwa Goh Intensive Care Eye Cream. If you still find yourself starved of moisture, a sleeping mask, a extra-occlusive product to seal everything in, is a viable option as a final layer.

One caveat: 7Skin is something of a misnomer; 3Skin is typically enough for me, especially with the Hanyul's thicker texture. What's crucial is not that one follow instructions to the letter and apply seven layers of product, but rather that your skin reaches that saturation point. You can feel it; the skin springs back like a steak cooked rare. Some days I need more, some less.

If you still find yourself dehydrated, a humidifier might be a welcome addition during the colder months. I also always start my skincare on damp skin, post-cleansing, as the first step in building layers of moisture.

DETAILS
Hanyul Rice Essential Skin Softener is 150mL for $35 at Aritaum.com, 200mL is ₩36,000 (Korea only).
Freeplus Moist Care Lotion 2 is 130mL for $27 at Sasa.
Missha Time Revolution Night Repairis 40mL for $36 and 50mL for $49 at Missha.
Clarins Blue Orchid is 30mL for $58; Double Serum is $89 for 30mL and $122 for 50mL.
Huxley Cream: More Than Moist is 50mL for $48 at Glow Recipe. I bought mine at Cree'mare for ₩38,000.
Atopalm MLE is 100mL for $42 at Lovely Skin.
Hanyul Baek Hwa Goh eye cream is 25mL for $59 at Aritaum.

*My preferred term, because it's the least likely to cause confusion.

Kimchi Fried Rice with Tuna

A Korean fast-food classic. The ingredients are pantry staples here and if something is missing I can always nip down to a convenience store; they may be tricky to source outside of Korea, however.

1 ½ – 2 cups rice
salt & pepper to taste
1 tsp sesame seeds
1 tbsp sesame oil
1 tbsp butter
1 can of tuna
⅓ – ½ cup kimchi, chopped into small pieces, plus any reserved liquid
5g (roughly one individual packet) of roasted seaweed, optional
1 egg, fried, optional

Mix rice in a bowl with sesame seeds, sesame oil, salt, and pepper. When seasoning, keep in mind that the kimchi, tuna, and seaweed are also high in salt, and adjust accordingly. The oil should coat each individual grain; this will help with clumps later. If your rice is fresh, then stir a few times while the mixture cools in order to allow the steam to evaporate. On medium-high heat, fry the rice mixture once, moving the grains constantly and breaking up any lumps. Set aside. 김치 볶음밥 evolved as a method to use up soured, leftover kimchi and day(s)-old rice, so while there is no proper technique I do find that tossing the rice in sesame oil, especially when using fresh rice, then pre-frying once, will help you avoid mushy fried rice. It's more work than dumping it all at once into the frying pan, but the more moisture you can extract, the better your result.

The rest comes together quickly. Fry the tuna in butter for thirty seconds, breaking up large chunks, until it starts to soften. Reintroduce the rice mixture in the frying pan, and fry for two minutes longer. Add the kimchi, distributing evenly throughout the mixture. If you like a stronger kimchi flavor, add some of the pickling liquid as well. Stirring constantly, fry until the kimchi is cooked, or longer, until the rice forms a toasted crust (as I prefer it, see above), roughly five minutes—according to your preference. At the last, crumble in some seaweed; it will wilt immediately from the residual moisture in the mixture. Turn off the heat, and plate.

In the pan, I like also to fry an egg; there's enough leftover heat to cook the white but not the yolk, which adds a lovely rich contrast to the salty, umami flavors of the fried rice.

Routines: Cleansing: Fall 2017

Theoretically the simplest part of my routine. And yet I always end up with so many cleansers.

As I've explained in this brief overview, my skin's inadequacy as a barrier is its most salient characteristic: thin, low sebum, dehydrated under arid conditions, and frequently irritated. On top of the customary avoidance of known irritants, what meager acid mantle I've got is easily disrupted, restricting me to minimally invasive formulations, yet not so emollient (most balm cleansers) the residue requires a washcloth. You'd be surprised at what my skin considers aggressive. Nearly anything that foams, the texture of washcloths, a hot shower, even micellar water on cotton wool can be an issue at times.

Fortunately, as I break out rarely, the tactics required to minimize the potential for congestion and acne are largely unnecessary. I also wear very little base makeup, which bypasses the need for intensive cleansing later.

Nevertheless, there are still cleansers my skin tolerates without issue. Well formulated basics, like cleanser, are readily available for not too much trouble or expense, and I most frequently default to the cheapest: Bioderma Atoderm Ultra-Nourishing Shower Oil. In spite of the name, it's a simple, extremely mild detergent-based (not oil) cleanser, barely lathering, with a fragrance reminiscent of sweet peas. It's not an exceptional cleanser in regards to makeup removal, merely adequate; this is what I would consider a 'neutral' cleanser, a reliable basic around which you build the rest of your routine, according to your needs. Everyone needs one. For me, a good cleanser is negatively defined: it's not harsh, it doesn't leave any residue, it doesn't reek of perfume, it's not expensive, but it leaves my skin clean. From time to time, I will play with something more indulgent, purely for the fun of trying out something new, but it's always a comfort to know this has my back.

I employ no elaborate techniques when cleansing: rinse face, apply cleanser, rinse hands, massage gently until you can feel the grime lift off the skin, rinse. Occasionally I do require heavy-duty removal for waterproof sunscreen and makeup, and like most people, for the sake of thoroughness (and gentleness), I find it ideal to break up the process of cleansing into multiple steps. Since I wear waterproof mascara, I soak cotton wool in Bifesta Eye Make Up Remover in order to first dissolve the curl-holding-but-extremely-tenacious formula. Afterwards, I may do a single-cleanse with a neutral cleanser, or I might double-cleanse with micellar water or the eucalyptus-scented, aptly named Heimish All Clean Balm, a solid cleansing oil and therefore a proper makeup remover.

On standby are two products that neatly illustrate how skincare often answers psychological needs rather than utilitarian: Hanyul Ja Cho Oil Cleansing Balm, a non-emulsifying emollient balm, and Tata Harper Refreshing Cleanser, a luxurious cleansing milk. They leave my skin feeling happy, but they don't feel quite right as a daily cleanser. The Hanyul in particular leaves my skin looking clear and refined, but cannot be worked without a washcloth, so I save it for 'spa days', when I'm in the mood for a facial massage.

DETAILS
Bioderma Atoderm Ultra Nourishing Shower Oil is available in 100mL, 200mL, and 1L sizes at Feel Unique for roughly $8-20. I bought mine at Olive Young for ₩22,000.
Bifesta Eye Make Up Remover is 145mL, available at sasa.com for $6.80. I bought mine at Olive Young, on sale two for ₩12,000.
Heimish All Clean Balm is 120mL, available on Amazon. I bought mine at Åland for ₩18,000.
Hanyul Ja Cho Oil Cleansing Balm is 60mL, available at Aritaum. I bought mine (on sale) at Aritaum for ₩19,000.
Tata Harper Refreshing Cleanser is $78 for 125mL, available at Nordstrom. I bought mine at Cult Beauty for £58.33.

An Introduction to My Skin

Paper-thin and intolerant, my skin's most dominant characteristic is its sensitivity. It's dry, but not at such an extremity I struggle to control it, merely governing a preference for mild cleansers and rich creams. Dehydration varies seasonally; without precautions, the deep of winter can be brutal, but it practically absorbs moisture from the air on a hot, humid day. Acne and congestion is virtually non-existent. Diet doesn't adversely affect it. Outside of its tendency to react to everything—heat, sunshine, dust, abrasion, fresh fruit, stress, triggers in cosmetics—my skin is manageable.

This places a considerable limitation on my experiments with skincare, somewhat to my chagrin. I love the rituals of vanity. Women are typically shamed for an interest in beauty, as if our native state of worth should be defined by self-abnegation, and that therefore an appreciation for one's body is degrading. I can think of few indulgences more harmless than a face cream, luxuriously packaged, a private moment in front of the mirror. I'm largely shut out from these pursuits, however. My skin dislikes all but the blandest, boring-est skincare, and as long as I don't provoke it with too many ingredients, it generally minds itself. In truth, skin this thin, though a hassle to live with, looks good: fine textured and almost translucent. I expect the reason why exfoliants, highlighters, retinoids, humectants, and vitamin C reap such popularity is because they mimic the look of thin skin, although it's not as healthy. (Technically, I have an impaired barrier, easily damaged.) There isn't much you can do about sensitive skin, but here are some of the guidelines I follow:

ISOLATE IRRITANTS
Some of mine are aloe vera, cyclomethicone, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP also under suspicion), niacinamide*, avobenzone, glycolic acid, pumpkin, mineral oil, most sulfates, decyl glucoside, most UV filters, most fruits, and calendula. Fragrance-free is preferable, though not always possible.

N.B. As it turns out, niacinamide does wonders to boost the barrier function of my skin. My skin has become far less sensitive to triggers due to a routine that heavily features products dosed with niacinamide, a common trait in skincare of Korean manufacture due to its 'brightening' properties. This has expanded, to a considerable degree, the products my skin can tolerate. It's almost 'normal'.

PRACTICE AVOIDANCE & PATCH-TEST
Make it a habit to scan ingredients lists (cosdna, makeupalley) with every product. If no known irritant is evident, buy samples or minis to test first. Not every irritant provokes a bright red rash. Some reactions are subtle and slow to build, so a patch test makes barely detectable symptoms of irritation more noticeable. Remain vigilant until continued use proves a product to be neutral.

MAINTAIN THE ACID MANTLE
Avoid alkaline cleansers, products closer to the skin's natural, slightly acidic pH are gentler to the skin. Watch over the constantly shifting balance of water and oil, keeping in mind that dehydration and dryness are often separate concerns. Moisturizing may be the most basic (after cleanliness), but it is also the most delicate balance to strike. Often the difficulty of establishing a routine is that, while the conditions specific to your skin differ in their causes, your skincare is required to treat all of them holistically. For example, dryness for me is physiological, a case of hypoproductive sebaceous glands, while my dehydration is largely environmental, fluctuating according to humidity. A product that address dehydration, therefore, cannot ignore the preexisting condition of dryness (and of course sensitivity). This renders the vast majority of serums—those that make vague promises rather than serving as a carrier for a specific active—useless for my skin type, as most lower-weight moisturizers evaporate instantly without emollients to tether them to existence.

WATCH YOUR HABITS
A minimalist formula may not dazzle you at first, but you'll find yourself reaching for it nevertheless, almost without thinking. This is a fair sign it works well for you.

IN CASE OF EMERGENCY
Do nothing. Maybe a damp cool towel (to stave off inflammation), followed by something inert like Vaseline. Personally, I've had great success with Dr. Jart Cicapair; it's the rare product that has any effect on irritation. Most of the time you need to wait it out, until your skin heals.

While most people do not need to exercise this degree of caution, these tactics, because their aim is to keep skin in good temper, are universally applicable. If in doubt of what your skin requires, especially if it's breaking out, treat it as if it were sensitive.

To close this introduction, the products that have earned my fidelity, oft repurchased. My skin openly prefers simple products; I constantly fight the urge to experiment. Predictably, I've scuttled back, at some point or another, with my tail between my legs to every one of these products, burned by my own unfaithfulness. It's a short list: Bioderma, Neutrogena Extra Gentle Cleanser, Hadalabo Gokujyun softener, Paula's Choice RESIST C15, plain argan oil, Atopalm, Dr. Hauschka and Nuxe lip balms. 2017 update: Bifesta Eye Make Up Remover, Atoderm Ultra-Nourishing Shower Oil, Freeplus Moist Care Lotion 2, Huxley More Than Moist Cream, Clarins Blue Orchid oil, Dr. Jart+ Cicapair (both cream and serum), Paula's Choice CLINICAL Retinol 1% (as eye cream), Sun Bears Super Strong Plus SPF 50/PA++++.