Routines: Treatment: Fall 2017

One category of products is conspicuously absent in my routine: and those are actives* (with the exception of sunscreen).

At the present moment my skincare is largely dedicated to maintenance and care. While I do break up cleansing and moisturizing into multiple steps, my routine is ultimately nothing more than maintenance. Currently I have neither a no-nonsense minimalist routine nor an overflow of trendy products: some are neutral basic formulations, others are psychologically indulgent luxuries. A little faff is okay, in my estimation. I find that if you've established a core routine of reliable and neutral basics, you can experiment a little outside of products that offer value for money, conservative skincare practices (such as avoiding plant extracts), and those ingredients backed by clinical research. But, again with the exception of sunscreen, these products will not counter the inevitability of genetics and time.

The only active-led, anti-aging product in my arsenal (again, except for sunscreen, if only to reinforce its importance) is Paula's Choice CLINICAL 1% Retinol Treatment. I use this around my eyes, where the first signs occur; for whatever reason, my skin does not find retinoids overly irritating, not even tretinoin, so I find a 1% retinol offers just enough punch to use as an anti-aging eye cream. Additionally, I've been pumping it out first onto a hyperpigmentation spot on the back of my hand—because why not—and I am delighted to report that the spot has started to fade. I would also like to incorporate a LAA serum underneath my sunscreen, since antioxidants and sun protection go hand in hand, but the combination of a niacinamide-heavy routine** and lack of access to a stable formulation in Korea hasn't made vitamin C valid as an option. I typically don't have issues with my skin outside of sensitivity, and since actives have a higher probably of triggering a reaction, a retinol is all I've got. I dare say, however, it's a heavy-hitter.

I do not use a dedicated niacinamide-led treatment—at least, there's no information on percentages for any of the products I use—but it is scattered all throughout my routine for its ameliorative effect on my easily upset, easily dehydrated skin. Under the influence of niacinamide, my skin has normalized and become far less reactive than previously, which is my primary concern. Niacinamide boosts radiance and evens out skin tone to boot—always a bonus.

Occasionally my skin has a meltdown. It reacts far less frequently now that it's frequently dosed with niacinamide, but it still happens. In which case I scale back to the bare minimum of Bioderma Atoderm cleanser and one of my favorite discoveries in Korea, Dr. Jart Cicapair, available in both serum and cream. I layer them generously, bunker down, and wait the irritation out. It's very rare that you will find products that will speed recovery and healing; Cicapair is one of the few that does.

Due to having paper-skin to begin with, there is no separate category for exfoliation. Since it addresses a multiplicity of issues from congestion to hyperpigmentation to acne, I would classify exfoliation as treatment. However, I don't exfoliate. It does me far more harm than good.


DETAILS
Paula's Choice 1% Retinol is 30mL for $56, available at Paula's Choice. I haven't replaced mine yet, but RRP in Korea is ₩77,000.
Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Serum is 30mL for $46, available at Sephora. I bought mine at Olive Young for ₩38,000.
Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Cream is 50mL for $48, available at Sephora. I bought mine at Olive Young for ₩45,000.

*It's possible to classify any number of ingredients as actives, but by this I mean potent actives with benefits and side effects on the skin beyond simple cleansing/moisturizing, thus requiring special handling in terms of formulation and application. A cream is a cream at the end of the day; an LAA serum requires more research to incorporate optimally into your routine.
**I have read that the research claiming LAA and niacinamide cannot be used simultaneously is outdated. However, as I don't have access to a proper stabilized concentration of vitamin C product at the moment, the issue is moot.