Review: Swanicoco Fermentation Care Skintoner

If you're looking for radiant, dewy, bouncy skin straight out of a skincare advertisement, Swanicoco Fermentation Care Skintoner is most glow-boosting softener I've yet encountered, with an ingredients list that hits you like a actives-led serum. (Indeed, my preferred method of use is to pair it with the Fermentation Care Serum, as the effects only intensify when layered.)

INGREDIENTS (Skintoner)    aspergillus/rice ferment filtrate, Centaurea cyanus flower water, tissue-cultured wild ginseng extract, butylene glycol, human oligopeptide-1, hydrolyzed collagen, sodium hyaluronate, niacinamide, saccharomyces/Viscum album ferment filtrate, saccharomyces/Imperata cylindrica root ferment filtrate, lactobacillus/soybean ferment filtrate, lactobacillus/Rhus semialata gall extract ferment filtrate, glycerin, 1,2-hexanediol, Saussurea involucrata extract, caffeoyl tripeptide-1, polysorbate 60, caprylic/capric triglyceride, allantoin, tocopheryl acetate, carbomer, arginine, Centella asiatica leaf extract, lactobacillus/Bambusa vulgaris shoot/Glycyrrhiza glabra root/Luffa cylindrica fruit/Morus alba root/Oueraria lobata root ferment filtrate, Camellia sinensis seed oil, Magnolia kobus bark extract, Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, green tea/black tea/white tea/pu'er tea extract, rosemary leaf extract, Chamomilla recutita (matricaria) leaf extract, Citrus grandis fruit extract, Thujopsis dolabrata branch extract

INGREDIENTS (Serum)    aspergillus/rice ferment filtrate, human oligopeptide-1, tissue-cultured wild ginseng extract, astaxanthin, sodium hyaluronate, butylene glycol, caffeoyl tripeptide-1, sh-Octapeptide-4, nicotinoyl tripeptide-1, lactobacillus/soybean ferment extract, saccharomyces/Viscum album extract, saccharomyces/Imperata cylindrica root extract, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, ceramide 1, saccharomyces/Asparagus cochinchinensis root/Lycium chinense root/Ophiopogon japonicus root/Panax ginseng root/Poria cocos/Rehmannia glutinosa root ferment filtrate, niacinamide, 1,2-hexanediol, saccharomyces/Lycium chinense fruit/Rehmannia glutonoa root/Cuscuta chinensis fruit/Cistanche deserticoloa/Zanthoxylum piperitum fruit/Chrysanthemum morifolium fruit/Poria cocos/Cinnamomum cassia ferment filtrate, polysorbate 50, allantoin, carbomer, hydrolyzed elastin, arginine, Magnolia kobus bark extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, Rhus semialata gall extract, Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, Saccharomyces/Angelic dahurica root ferment filtrate, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, adenosine, Rosmarinus officinalis leaft extract, Chamomilla recutita (matricaria) leaf extract, Citrus grandis fruit extract, Thujopsis dolabrata branch extract, Rosa damescena flower oil

It's certainly true to name. There's an abundance of ferments here, plus reassuringly top-heavy doses of ginseng, EGF, humectants like collagen and sodium hyaluronate, and niacinamide—all without alcohol or silicones. Fermentation is a metabolic process in which bacteria or yeast break down substrates, theoretically making the nutrients more readily absorbed by the skin, thereby enhancing the inherent benefits of the extract. As a bonus, ferments are naturally acidic.

On drier, dehydrated skin types, the texture is ideal for the 7Skin Method: a thickened water, absorbs quickly at initial application and reaches saturation point before it becomes unbearably sticky. The Serum is marginally thicker in viscosity, but, without much in the way of fillers, absorbs as easily as the Skintoner. However, because Swanicoco is priced higher (and works best when layered with the serum or emulsion), I prefer not to use it for 7Skin. It's not, in any case, designed with the purpose of hydration in mind; Fermentation Care seems better categorized as a brightening, antioxidant-rich 'first essence', and in that role it is highly effective. Only a small amount is required to achieve luminosity, though I was not as lucky as vanity rex and did not experience any lightening of hyperpigmentation. Personally, I use two or three layers of the Skintoner, one layer of the Serum, then follow up with a hydrating toner, an emulsion, a sunscreen or an occlusive cream... and so forth.

Gel-like water Skintoner at left; slightly higher viscosity Serum at right.

The fragrance is green apple with notes of an aldehydic rose. Fermentation Care comes in a ultra-reflective silver airless pump bottle. While I recognize the practicality of an airless pump, I nevertheless find it something of an eyesore.

As with all complex ingredients lists, approach with caution if you have reactive skin: I notice my skin warms up ever so slightly upon initial application, presumably from the ginseng, and with continued use microcomedones start simmering beneath my skin, surfacing in the presence of another irritant, such as hot shower water. It's anyone's guess which ingredient among so many is the culprit, but this is a risk anyone with sensitive skin takes, and does not detract from the quality of the formulation itself.


AFTERTHOUGHTS
    SWANICOCO Fermentation Care Skintoner

• PROS: Available at select locations in Seoul. Alcohol free. Texture is ideal for layering, starting to become sticky after four. Multiple, multiple ferments; extremely brightening.
• CONS: RRP isn't unreasonable, but Swanicoco does not appear to run sales as frequently as other brands, so I would consider this pricey, allayed by the sense of paying for quality ingredients and formulation. Moderate at hydration; may need to follow up with a more hydrating toner. Fragrance. Alas, I found this too irritating.
• UNIQUE FEATURES: So many beautiful ingredients. Worth reiterating: extremely brightening. The previous name for this product appears to be 산삼배양근; it is currently 퍼멘테이션 케어.

DETAILS
Swanicoco Fermentation Care Skintoner is 120mL for $38, available at W2Beauty. I bought mine at the Ewha location (I think there is also a store near Gangnam station) for ₩35,000.