Review: From Nature Age Intense Treatment Essence

It can be overwhelming, the sheer abundance of first essences on the market. Practically every Korean brand offers a variation on the theme, from the dizzying heights of absurd luxury (Amore Pacific Vintage Single Extract Essence, for example), to the cheerfully downmarketed From Nature Age Intense Treatment Essence at the local Emart, one of many iterations of SK-II that might catch your eye while shopping for groceries and socks, priced gently enough to make a glow-inducing, mildly acidic post-cleansing hydration step accessible to everyone. The formula is brief and to the point, but the important ingredients (galactomyces ferment, niacinamide, and humectants) front the list.

INGREDIENTS    galactomyces ferment filtrate, niacinamide (2%), water, adenosine, sodium hyaluronate, butylene glycol, Portulaca oleracea extract, Ipomoea hederacea seed extract, Paeonia albiflora flower extract, saccharomyces/Angelica dahurica root ferment filtrate, ethylhexylglycerin, phenoxyethanol, chlorophenesin

From Nature Age Intense Treatment Essence is housed in the conventional manner for first essences: a frosted glass bottle with silver accents. It smells faintly of yeast, which dissipates quickly, but is otherwise unscented. The texture is optimal for a first essence—watery, a touch of slippery humectants, quick absorption—and it dries down to a slightly tacky finish that one expects from a moderately humectant formula. This means that, on dehydrated skin, it penetrates a little deeper, absorbs better, hydrates a bit more. If you're more severely dehydrated, or live in a dry climate, you'll still need to layer on products targeted at dehydration, but this forms a nice base. It's also brightening. Perhaps not as much as the Swanicoco, but more than the Hanyul and BRTC. What makes the From Nature appealing is the balance it strikes: the niacinamide-rich formula competently hydrates and brightens, and isn't onerously priced.

It leaves the skin nicely hydrated, not too tacky.

Does this make From Nature my perfect first essence? Not quite. I didn't quite finish my full run with this product; one out of five products will irritate my skin, and this was one of them. (Years ago, I reacted to SKII, and since then I've always been wary of galactomyces. I'll avoid it from now on.) Since sensitivity is entirely individual, this ought not dissuade anyone else from trying what appears to be a good product in all other respects.


AFTERTHOUGHTS

• PROS Inexpensive. Easy to find at Emart. Moderate hydration. Moderate brightening. Respectable amount of niacinamide.
• CONS None, really. It irritated my skin, but that's down to personal triggers.
• UNIQUE FEATURES None, but it simultaneously satisfies a number of criteria well: sometimes a well rounded performance is noteworthy.

DETAILS
RRP for From Nature Age Intense Treatment Essence is ₩19,800 for 150mL or ₩30,000 for 340mL (a plastic bottle with a pump), but typically goes on sale for 50-60% off. It's also worth looking around for 1+1 deals; two 150mL-bottles for ₩18,000 make this an economical purchase indeed. I bought mine at the Emart near Guro Digital Complex for ₩12,900.

Review: BRTC The First Ampoule Essence

I was primarily drawn to BRTC The First Ampoule Essence for featuring a rice ferment and niacinamide, much like Hanyul Rice Essential Skin Softener. I find their effects comparable—they brighten to roughly the same degree, albeit not as much as Swanicoco Fermentation Care—but BRTC has no alcohol, no added fragrance, and somewhat unexpectedly, no humectants. There's a handful of ferments, white tea and Korean dandelion extract, niacinamide, and some plant-derived antioxidants/anti-irritants, but it's a brief ingredients list.

INGREDIENTS    lactobacillus/brown rice ferment filtrate, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Taraxacum platycarpum extract, niacinamide, PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer, galactomyces ferment filtrate, lactobacillus/Eriodictyon californicum ferment filtrate, allantoin, adenosine, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, disodium EDTA, Centaurea cyanus flower extract, Borago officinalis extract, Lavandula angustifolia extract, Chamomilla recutita (matricaria) flower/leaf extract, Hyacinthus orientalis extract, Salvia sclarea extract

The First Ampoule Essence is practically scentless; there is perhaps a very faint whiff of fermented rice, but this quickly dissipates, and none of the flower waters are detectable. It comes in a frosted glass bottle with navy and silver lettering, simple and conventional packaging for first essences, with demarcations running along one side, each notch indicating a single-day's volume of use. However, I tend to use only just enough to spread a thin layer over my face once, and only once, because the deceptively watery texture dries down to a surprisingly emollient, silky finish (see below) that feels more moisturizing than hydrating. This is a true first essence; unlike others of that ilk, it does not double as a hydrating toner. On my skin, I feel it's necessary to follow up with a product that's specifically aimed at dehydration. This is a minor inconvenience if you already follow a multi-step routine, but if your aim is to keep it simple this—or any other first essence, for that matter—is probably not the product for you.

On the one hand, I find BRTC well suited to wintertime use, as my skin could certainly benefit from a little extra nourishment, a little extra glow. I do not know how it would fare in summertime, or on oilier skin types. On the other hand, it's a finicky product best suited to a complicated routine. It's best applied with a cotton pad, then patted in and allowed to absorb for a few minutes, followed by a hydrating toner or serum. As yet, I've not noticed any reactions; perhaps an isolated whitehead or two.

Overall, BRTC The First Ampoule Essence evokes mild approval. It gives me no cause for concern, and it's competent in its role as a brightening, niacinamide-enriched first treatment essence, but it's not remarkable enough to differentiate it from its competition.


AFTERTHOUGHTS
BRTC The First Ampoule Essence

• PROS Alcohol free. Fragrance-free and almost scentless. Feels nourishing on dry skin, but takes a little longer to absorb.
• CONS Due to the emollient feel, may be unsuited to oilier skins. Not hydrating enough; would require layering with hydrating products if dehydration is an issue. BRTC is available offline at select LOHB, Watson's, and Olive Young, but only selected products.
• UNIQUE FEATURES None. Looks great on paper, however.

DETAILS
Available in 150ml for ₩38,000, 310mL for ₩68,000. It is often on sale, however, for half price. I got mine off Gmarket for ₩22,800.

Review: Swanicoco Fermentation Care Skintoner

If you're looking for radiant, dewy, bouncy skin straight out of a skincare advertisement, Swanicoco Fermentation Care Skintoner is most glow-boosting softener I've yet encountered, with an ingredients list that hits you like a actives-led serum. (Indeed, my preferred method of use is to pair it with the Fermentation Care Serum, as the effects only intensify when layered.)

INGREDIENTS (Skintoner)    aspergillus/rice ferment filtrate, Centaurea cyanus flower water, tissue-cultured wild ginseng extract, butylene glycol, human oligopeptide-1, hydrolyzed collagen, sodium hyaluronate, niacinamide, saccharomyces/Viscum album ferment filtrate, saccharomyces/Imperata cylindrica root ferment filtrate, lactobacillus/soybean ferment filtrate, lactobacillus/Rhus semialata gall extract ferment filtrate, glycerin, 1,2-hexanediol, Saussurea involucrata extract, caffeoyl tripeptide-1, polysorbate 60, caprylic/capric triglyceride, allantoin, tocopheryl acetate, carbomer, arginine, Centella asiatica leaf extract, lactobacillus/Bambusa vulgaris shoot/Glycyrrhiza glabra root/Luffa cylindrica fruit/Morus alba root/Oueraria lobata root ferment filtrate, Camellia sinensis seed oil, Magnolia kobus bark extract, Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, green tea/black tea/white tea/pu'er tea extract, rosemary leaf extract, Chamomilla recutita (matricaria) leaf extract, Citrus grandis fruit extract, Thujopsis dolabrata branch extract

INGREDIENTS (Serum)    aspergillus/rice ferment filtrate, human oligopeptide-1, tissue-cultured wild ginseng extract, astaxanthin, sodium hyaluronate, butylene glycol, caffeoyl tripeptide-1, sh-Octapeptide-4, nicotinoyl tripeptide-1, lactobacillus/soybean ferment extract, saccharomyces/Viscum album extract, saccharomyces/Imperata cylindrica root extract, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, ceramide 1, saccharomyces/Asparagus cochinchinensis root/Lycium chinense root/Ophiopogon japonicus root/Panax ginseng root/Poria cocos/Rehmannia glutinosa root ferment filtrate, niacinamide, 1,2-hexanediol, saccharomyces/Lycium chinense fruit/Rehmannia glutonoa root/Cuscuta chinensis fruit/Cistanche deserticoloa/Zanthoxylum piperitum fruit/Chrysanthemum morifolium fruit/Poria cocos/Cinnamomum cassia ferment filtrate, polysorbate 50, allantoin, carbomer, hydrolyzed elastin, arginine, Magnolia kobus bark extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, Rhus semialata gall extract, Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, Saccharomyces/Angelic dahurica root ferment filtrate, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, adenosine, Rosmarinus officinalis leaft extract, Chamomilla recutita (matricaria) leaf extract, Citrus grandis fruit extract, Thujopsis dolabrata branch extract, Rosa damescena flower oil

It's certainly true to name. There's an abundance of ferments here, plus reassuringly top-heavy doses of ginseng, EGF, humectants like collagen and sodium hyaluronate, and niacinamide—all without alcohol or silicones. Fermentation is a metabolic process in which bacteria or yeast break down substrates, theoretically making the nutrients more readily absorbed by the skin, thereby enhancing the inherent benefits of the extract. As a bonus, ferments are naturally acidic.

On drier, dehydrated skin types, the texture is ideal for the 7Skin Method: a thickened water, absorbs quickly at initial application and reaches saturation point before it becomes unbearably sticky. The Serum is marginally thicker in viscosity, but, without much in the way of fillers, absorbs as easily as the Skintoner. However, because Swanicoco is priced higher (and works best when layered with the serum or emulsion), I prefer not to use it for 7Skin. It's not, in any case, designed with the purpose of hydration in mind; Fermentation Care seems better categorized as a brightening, antioxidant-rich 'first essence', and in that role it is highly effective. Only a small amount is required to achieve luminosity, though I was not as lucky as vanity rex and did not experience any lightening of hyperpigmentation. Personally, I use two or three layers of the Skintoner, one layer of the Serum, then follow up with a hydrating toner, an emulsion, a sunscreen or an occlusive cream... and so forth.

Gel-like water Skintoner at left; slightly higher viscosity Serum at right.

The fragrance is green apple with notes of an aldehydic rose. Fermentation Care comes in a ultra-reflective silver airless pump bottle. While I recognize the practicality of an airless pump, I nevertheless find it something of an eyesore.

As with all complex ingredients lists, approach with caution if you have reactive skin: I notice my skin warms up ever so slightly upon initial application, presumably from the ginseng, and with continued use microcomedones start simmering beneath my skin, surfacing in the presence of another irritant, such as hot shower water. It's anyone's guess which ingredient among so many is the culprit, but this is a risk anyone with sensitive skin takes, and does not detract from the quality of the formulation itself.


AFTERTHOUGHTS
    SWANICOCO Fermentation Care Skintoner

• PROS: Available at select locations in Seoul. Alcohol free. Texture is ideal for layering, starting to become sticky after four. Multiple, multiple ferments; extremely brightening.
• CONS: RRP isn't unreasonable, but Swanicoco does not appear to run sales as frequently as other brands, so I would consider this pricey, allayed by the sense of paying for quality ingredients and formulation. Moderate at hydration; may need to follow up with a more hydrating toner. Fragrance. Alas, I found this too irritating.
• UNIQUE FEATURES: So many beautiful ingredients. Worth reiterating: extremely brightening. The previous name for this product appears to be 산삼배양근; it is currently 퍼멘테이션 케어.

DETAILS
Swanicoco Fermentation Care Skintoner is 120mL for $38, available at W2Beauty. I bought mine at the Ewha location (I think there is also a store near Gangnam station) for ₩35,000.

Spotlight On: Hanyul Rice Essential Skin Softener

The one that started it all. The Hanyul Rice Essential Skin Softener was my gateway to the 7Skin Method.

What I've discovered is that, with sufficient hydration, my skin tends to sort itself out. Excepting the arid winter months, I've become less drier and sensitive than before. (Incorporating niacinamide, with its barrier-repairing, ceramide-production inducing, photocarcinogenesis-inhibiting, melanin-formation-suppressing, anti-inflammatory, etcetera functions, has also helped enormously.) It may take a lot of layering to get there, but 7Skin works. Dehydration is better addressed by several light layers than a single heavy one, though I've never found it necessary to go full seven layers. Additionally, it opens up the possibility of maximizing the first product in your routine. Not only is it the first layer, in full and direct contact with the skin, it's also a product you use in high amounts, so theoretically it's possible to read specific benefits by simply changing formulas.

This has sparked an odyssey for my perfect 7Skin toner, as the Hanyul is not ideal. The texture is too thick and serum-like, and becomes quite sticky when layered, plus it features alcohol rather high up on the ingredients list. On the other hand, the combination of niacinamide, ferments, and humectants is effective at brightening and keeping the skin hydrated. Like any good first essence, it immediately perks up dull, tired-looking skin.

INGREDIENTS (2017 FORMULATION)    water, alcohol, PEG/PPG-16/6 copolymer, glycereth-26, butylene glycol, niacinamide, monascus/rice ferment, lactobacillus/soybean ferment extract, saccharomyces/barley seed ferment filtrate, sodium hyaluronate, angelica acutiloba root extract, cnidium officinale root extract, soybean seed extract, glycerin, glyceryl polymethacrylate, dextrin, bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane, adenosine, ethylhexylglycerin, carbomer, theobroma cacao extract, tromethamine, PPG-13-decyltetradeceth-24, disodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol, fragrance

The fragrance is a pleasant powdery floral, with hints of rice wine. The shape of the bottle is a nod to the traditional clay pots (옹기) used in the fermentation of foods in Korean cuisine, but in translucent mauve ombré glass—aesthetically, neither here nor there for me. Additionally, Hanyul is everywhere in Korea, and Aritaum frequently runs sales on this bestseller: 200mL for ~₩20,000, reasonably priced for someone who ploughs through a bottle a month. The issue is primarily, then, a matter of texture, and the less-than-ideal inclusion of alcohol; it's been formulated this way, I presume, to compensate for the almost sticky, heavy texture of rice extract, and make it more pleasant on the skin. With the positives outweighing the negatives, it's been hard to find better.

These are the products I'd categorize as "niacinamide/ferments-based brightening first essences".
I've accumulated far more: for calming irritation, hydration only, ceramide-based. -_-'

This is just the beginning. I've got a dozen or so products for the purposes of experimentation and review. Considering the popularity of the 7Skin Method, I have to imagine it has proved equally effective for others when dealing with dehydration, and just as tricky finding the right toner for the job. Hopefully I'll find something that answers this burning desire for the perfectly layerable, brightening, hydrating, soothing, but not-too-pricey-and-hard-to-get water-based solution.


AFTERTHOUGHTS

    HANYUL Rice Essential Skin Softener

• PROS: Accessibility and price point (within Korea). Aesthetics are a non-issue. Multiple ferments; brightens well. In spite of the alcohol, I find it hydrating and not drying; likely the alcohol was deemed necessary to cut through the humectants and fermented rice extract.
• CONS: Texture is thick, and becomes sticky after one layer. Alcohol. Fragrance.
• UNIQUE FEATURES: Jeon JiHyun sparked a craze for this product. It's the jack-of-all-trades, master-of-none product so far in my search for the ideal 7Skin Toner.

DETAILS
Hanyul is 150mL for $35, available at Aritaum, 200mL for ₩37,000, but I frequently find it on sale.

What Is A 'Neutral' Product?

I'm a firm believer in the psychological pleasures of beauty products. Sometimes, I want to treat myself to a luxurious product, to satisfy the lust we often feel as consumers for something new, something extravagant, something precious, something rare and hard-to-find. Often, however, I lose focus and the once-exciting treasure is not sought out for repurchase. Over the years I've come to the conclusion that when it comes to high-turnover products like skincare—quickly used up, quickly repurchased—I prefer my most-loved essential products to be boring. Neutral.

If I had no other skincare, I would be fine. I do have more, of course. =)

If your aim is simply to take good care of your skin, then finding a core routine of reliable products is all that's required. If you enjoy experimentation, you still need neutral products to fall back on, as a point of comparison for your skin's preferences. My 'neutral' cleanser is not my Tata Harper Refreshing Cleanser, and I know this, in spite of its heavenly fragrance of grapefruit and neroli, the creamy warm pink hue, the gentle purification from pink clay and willow bark, the bottle like summer sunshine filtered by a tree spreading its green branches above you; it's my Bioderma Atoderm Ultra-Nourishing Shower Oil, which you can buy in a colossal 1L size and offers little in the way of romance. It's a cleanser, in sum. A very good, simple formula, and an economical option for dry, sensitive skin. This isn't to claim that one is superior to the other—in fact both feature coco-glucoside as their main detergent—there's room in our skincare routines, surely, for both frivolous luxuries as well as boring, utilitarian products. However, for a routine to work, it does need to be built on a foundation of neutral products. The option to experiment is always there; it's harder to find the basics.

Some signs that a product is a neutral product:

• FORMULA   Typically (but not always) a simple, minimalist formula designed for most skin types including sensitive. Or, a product that you know well, and can be sure of how your skin reacts.
• PERFORMANCE   Reliable to the point it no longer requires much thought to use. It's always in the background, performing faithfully. Ingredients lists are a start, but they don't necessarily determine how they perform on the skin, so this differs somewhat from formula.
• LIFESTYLE   Integrates well into your routine and plays well with other products. Often this is where texture comes into play.
• ACCESSIBILITY   Skincare, unlike eyeshadow palettes, are high-turnover products and require frequent repurchases. Personally, I love the thrill of the hunt when it comes to experimenting, but strangely loathe the hassle when making repurchases. As such, I prefer to buy within the domestic market (currently South Korea). The beauty industry is rife with copycats, so you can often find products that are similar to each other; for example I don't necessarily consider Heimish All Clean Balm the best makeup-removing initial cleanse on the market, but it is a good product that I can find easily without too much expense.
• PRICE POINT   Again, because skincare tends to be high turnover, the pricing becomes a factor when it comes time to repurchase. For me, that's between ₩10,000–₩50,000, depending on its kind.
• CONSUMER HABITS   If you've repurchased it or have a stockpile of backups, that's an obvious sign. It's not always possible to avoid ordering online; something critical like sunscreen or a specialized treatment may prove more elusive when it comes to finding the right formula.
• COMPETITION   It becomes a standard by which you measure other products. If you enjoy experimenting with skincare, that core routine gives you clarity: drop after drop, Product X was enjoyable, but at the end of the bottle (or jar), you think, "Well, it's not quite as nice as old faithful Product Y." This makes dabbling in luxury products less burdensome, in my opinion, since you are not looking for commitment.

Most of my own 'neutral' products are fairly bland but well made utilitarian products and, though best suited for drier skin, I can recommend without much reservation: Bioderma Atoderm Ultra-Nourishing Shower Oil, Bifesta Eye Make Up Remover, Heimish All Clean Balm, Freeplus Moist Care Lotion 2, Etude House Soon Jung 10-Free Moist Emulsion/Atopalm MLE Cream/Huxley More Than Moist, and Sun Bears Super Strong Plus SPF50/PA++++. One is a treatment; Paula's Choice 1% Retinol is fairly aggressive, so this is one to consider carefully before introducing it into your routine.

Routines: Treatment: Fall 2017

One category of products is conspicuously absent in my routine: and those are actives* (with the exception of sunscreen).

At the present moment my skincare is largely dedicated to maintenance and care. While I do break up cleansing and moisturizing into multiple steps, my routine is ultimately nothing more than maintenance. Currently I have neither a no-nonsense minimalist routine nor an overflow of trendy products: some are neutral basic formulations, others are psychologically indulgent luxuries. A little faff is okay, in my estimation. I find that if you've established a core routine of reliable and neutral basics, you can experiment a little outside of products that offer value for money, conservative skincare practices (such as avoiding plant extracts), and those ingredients backed by clinical research. But, again with the exception of sunscreen, these products will not counter the inevitability of genetics and time.

The only active-led, anti-aging product in my arsenal (again, except for sunscreen, if only to reinforce its importance) is Paula's Choice CLINICAL 1% Retinol Treatment. I use this around my eyes, where the first signs occur; for whatever reason, my skin does not find retinoids overly irritating, not even tretinoin, so I find a 1% retinol offers just enough punch to use as an anti-aging eye cream. Additionally, I've been pumping it out first onto a hyperpigmentation spot on the back of my hand—because why not—and I am delighted to report that the spot has started to fade. I would also like to incorporate a LAA serum underneath my sunscreen, since antioxidants and sun protection go hand in hand, but the combination of a niacinamide-heavy routine** and lack of access to a stable formulation in Korea hasn't made vitamin C valid as an option. I typically don't have issues with my skin outside of sensitivity, and since actives have a higher probably of triggering a reaction, a retinol is all I've got. I dare say, however, it's a heavy-hitter.

I do not use a dedicated niacinamide-led treatment—at least, there's no information on percentages for any of the products I use—but it is scattered all throughout my routine for its ameliorative effect on my easily upset, easily dehydrated skin. Under the influence of niacinamide, my skin has normalized and become far less reactive than previously, which is my primary concern. Niacinamide boosts radiance and evens out skin tone to boot—always a bonus.

Occasionally my skin has a meltdown. It reacts far less frequently now that it's frequently dosed with niacinamide, but it still happens. In which case I scale back to the bare minimum of Bioderma Atoderm cleanser and one of my favorite discoveries in Korea, Dr. Jart Cicapair, available in both serum and cream. I layer them generously, bunker down, and wait the irritation out. It's very rare that you will find products that will speed recovery and healing; Cicapair is one of the few that does.

Due to having paper-skin to begin with, there is no separate category for exfoliation. Since it addresses a multiplicity of issues from congestion to hyperpigmentation to acne, I would classify exfoliation as treatment. However, I don't exfoliate. It does me far more harm than good.


DETAILS
Paula's Choice 1% Retinol is 30mL for $56, available at Paula's Choice. I haven't replaced mine yet, but RRP in Korea is ₩77,000.
Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Serum is 30mL for $46, available at Sephora. I bought mine at Olive Young for ₩38,000.
Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Cream is 50mL for $48, available at Sephora. I bought mine at Olive Young for ₩45,000.

*It's possible to classify any number of ingredients as actives, but by this I mean potent actives with benefits and side effects on the skin beyond simple cleansing/moisturizing, thus requiring special handling in terms of formulation and application. A cream is a cream at the end of the day; an LAA serum requires more research to incorporate optimally into your routine.
**I have read that the research claiming LAA and niacinamide cannot be used simultaneously is outdated. However, as I don't have access to a proper stabilized concentration of vitamin C product at the moment, the issue is moot.

Lookbook: Faded Roses

Here is my current everyday look. Since I typically favor grey-toned pastels and bold lips, so this is my idea of a dusty toned-down look for autumn, rather than a neutral look. To balance out the earthy tones, it's centered around Bobbi Brown Blush 29 Nude Pink, a pastel violet-pink that oxidizes on my skin into a deeper pink that closely resembles an old discontinued favorite, Becca Wild Orchid. The lipstick I coordinate most frequently with it is Clé de Peau Lipstick 09 Silk Thread, a soft rose with mauve undertones. On me, it's a bog-standard neutral lip, but I nevertheless appreciate the supremely comfortable, balmy formula. I'm most comfortable in a bold lip, so they're still in rotation: Armani Lip Magnet #501 Eccentrico, an ultra-flourescent pink that's probably visible from space, and Missha Signature Dewy Rouge RD04 Scarlet Lady, a glossy pink-red sufficiently muted down that it feels appropriately autumnal.

As you can see, Nude Pink oxidizes significantly on my skin. But!... Into a color I like.

I've gone brighter on the cheeks mainly to offset the simple wash of brown eyeshadow on my lids. No one's more surprised than I am to find how much I like Aritaum Mono Eyes in M18 Classic Shadow, an ashy greyed matte taupe, but I find I can get away with this because it has absolutely no warmth. It could easily double for contouring.

The rest is finished off by bushy brows, courtesy of Bourjois Brow Design 04 Brun, which yields a fluffy and dramatic brow, moreso than the infamous Boy Brow, and extra definition at the lashline by tightlining. The result is an effortless, almost natural-looking smoky eye (if I didn't wear mascara, I think it would pass for natural), so to ramp up the smoulder a notch, Clinique Cream Shaper For Eyes 103 Egyptian, green-gold reflects scattered through a dilute charcoal kohl. Or, because my idea of a seasonal look tends to be variations on a theme, a touch of Addiction The Eyeshadow 052 Midnight Drive lifts the matte taupe ever so slightly and takes it in a more polished, colorful direction. I like the freshness of a pastel against the more conventional autumnal tones.


AFTERTHOUGHTS
I love the color on Bobbi Brown Nude Pink, but I wish the texture was less choppy.
Clé de Peau Silk Thread was bought in Japan, almost as a souvenir; otherwise, an expensive lipstick in a boring shade.
Love both Armani Lip Magnets and the Missha Signature Dewy Rouge formulae, however.
I wish I knew which MAC shadow Aritaum Classic Shadow is duping.
Might have to go back to Boy Brow. Bourjois Brow Design is finicky to apply: too big a brush.
KBeauty was obsessed with Clinique Egyptian several years ago, and that's why I thought to buy it.
I rarely wear colorful eye looks these days, but I still like to collect shadows, especially when they're as pretty as Addiction Midnight Drive.

Routines: Sun Protection: Fall 2017

The best sunscreen is one that you will actually use.

This is tricky. As much as I want the protection PA++++ offers, like most people I have trouble finding a sunscreen that strikes a balance between texturally acceptable and non-irritating. I am particularly reactive to UV filters, so when I find one my skin can tolerate, only then is it possible to consider whether the texture is tolerable. Something like Avène Very High Protection Mineral Fluid SPF50+/PA++++ is gentle and provides the UVA protection that's required, but like most all-physical sunscreens the suffocating feel on the skin is hard to tolerate and, regardless of its fitness for my skin, I will end up applying too little or, worse, avoiding it entirely.

Luckily, I've got one that works, with enough stockpiled for a nuclear winter: Sun Bears Super Strong Plus SPF50+/PA++++. I would not pretend it is the best texture out there, but in order for a sunscreen not to be irritating on my skin, a higher proportion of physical filters—and the corresponding sacrifice in texture—is necessary. An absolutely invisible sunscreen is not realistically within the realm of possibility for me, so I'm happy that Sun Bears is pleasant enough for everyday use, and like most fluid sunscreens there's enough silicone to double as a primer, and the scent is faint and inoffensive. The zinc oxide is a tad drying, but over the multiple strata of skincare typically applied onto my skin, I can hardly sense it. For all the things it is not (suffocatingly heavy, greasy, dead matte, stinky, irritating, alcohol-laden, prohibitively expensive, hard to apply), this serves as my neutral sunscreen.

It's amazing how sensitive this balance can be, how individually determined. A sunscreen that's even a little off loses significantly in terms of use value. Something like Too Cool For School Mild Cica Sun Lotion SPF50+/PA++++ manages nearly everything, but stumbles at the last when it comes to finish: it's simply too dead a matte. And yet, this would be great on an oilier skin. On the other hand, Anessa Perfect UV Sunscreen Aqua Booster SPF50/PA++++ offers the silky texture of dreams (though it does sit strangely under makeup), but is too harsh for my skin.

Among the trickle of PA++++ sunscreens on the Korean market, I've had better luck with Laneige Watery Sun Cream SPF50+/PA++++ and Huxley Sun Cream: Stay Sun Safe SPF50+/PA++++. Neither presents any serious issues, but they're both somewhat heavier and considerably pricier than the perennially reliable Sun Bears, so neither suffices as a replacement, though the boost in moisture might be nice for winter. We'll see. I am still in the process of testing.

N.B. All of these products, with the exception of the Anessa, leaves a white cast. I'm fair-skinned so personally this is not an issue.

DETAILS
Avène Mineral Fluid is 40mL for $16, available at Cocoon Center. I bought mine at Olive Young for ₩32,000.
Sun Bears Super Strong Plus is 28mL for $3.50, available at Sasa.
Too Cool For School Mild Cica Sun Lotion is 100mL for ₩23,000. I bought mine in store.
Anessa Perfect UV Sunscreen Aqua Booster is 60mL for $30, available at Sasa. I bought mine at Watson's for ₩36,000.
Laneige Watery Sun Cream is 50mL for $27, available at Aritaum.
Huxley Sun Cream: Stay Sun Safe is 35mL for ₩28,000. I bought mine at Chicor.

Routines: Hydration: Fall 2017 (plus an overview of the 7Skin Method)

There are several ways to deal with the common issue of dehydration; for me, the most effective method has proved to be layering, rather than depending on any single product to combat dehydration on its own. Years ago I discovered Asian toners—aka skins, aka lotions, aka softeners, aka essences, aka waters—humectant-based solutions that draw in moisture from your serums and creams, and never looked back. Even with a well formulated moisturizer, there is a significant boost in hydration if it's layered over a softener*; to me, a softener is a liquid moisturizer, lighter in weight even than a serum, designed with the primary objective of providing hydration.

Over the past year, the 7Skin trend has taken the Korean beauty community by storm: applying a softener, seven times, then sealed with a moisturizer. Instead of the a ten-step routine, only two products are required. If one layer of softener improves dehydration, then how much more hydration from seven layers?

It's certainly effective, I can vouch for that. The 7Skin operates on the same principle as a sheet mask; this is not a few drops of softener patted in delicately, but a full saturation of the epidermis with moisture and humectants. As such, the formula must be one that your skin finds agreeable: I prefer ones with niacinamide because it benefits the barrier function of sensitive skin. The texture should absorb readily into the skin, or you'll spend ages layering and layering. Additionally, keep in mind you'll go through product fast, roughly a bottle a month; if you find repurchases of SKII very dear, it's not ideal for the 7Skin Method. My personal favorites, though I'm often trying out new candidates, are Freeplus Moist Care Lotion 2, a neutral alcohol-free, fragrance-free formula designed for sensitive skin, and Hanyul Rice Essential Skin Softener, which packs more of a punch, a richer serum-textured softener with a noticeable brightening effect. Which I use depends on my skin's needs, and whether my skincare that day is going to be neutral or aggressive.

The 7Skin Method leaves your skin so well hydrated, extra moisturizer becomes almost superfluous; in the warmer months, I use serums or face oils instead. For extra hydration, I use the infamous Estée Lauder ANR knockoff, Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Science Activator Ampoule, a good basic all-rounder serum. For the well conditioned glow of a face oil, I like Clarins, either Blue Orchid or Double Serum. Once winter hits I do need to layer on a proper moisturizer, and long-established habit still prefers a heavy-duty occlusive cream—I am particularly fond of Huxley Cream: More Than Moist—but it's not the desperate search for moisture it once was. Less fancy, but a perennial favorite when my skin requires something bland and comforting: Atopalm MLE Intensive Moisturizing Cream. While I don't believe a dedicated eye cream is necessary, as far as the appropriate texture goes (moisturizing enough to soften fine lines yet absorbs readily before concealer) I do like Hanyul Baek Hwa Goh Intensive Care Eye Cream. If you still find yourself starved of moisture, a sleeping mask, a extra-occlusive product to seal everything in, is a viable option as a final layer.

One caveat: 7Skin is something of a misnomer; 3Skin is typically enough for me, especially with the Hanyul's thicker texture. What's crucial is not that one follow instructions to the letter and apply seven layers of product, but rather that your skin reaches that saturation point. You can feel it; the skin springs back like a steak cooked rare. Some days I need more, some less.

If you still find yourself dehydrated, a humidifier might be a welcome addition during the colder months. I also always start my skincare on damp skin, post-cleansing, as the first step in building layers of moisture.

DETAILS
Hanyul Rice Essential Skin Softener is 150mL for $35 at Aritaum.com, 200mL is ₩36,000 (Korea only).
Freeplus Moist Care Lotion 2 is 130mL for $27 at Sasa.
Missha Time Revolution Night Repairis 40mL for $36 and 50mL for $49 at Missha.
Clarins Blue Orchid is 30mL for $58; Double Serum is $89 for 30mL and $122 for 50mL.
Huxley Cream: More Than Moist is 50mL for $48 at Glow Recipe. I bought mine at Cree'mare for ₩38,000.
Atopalm MLE is 100mL for $42 at Lovely Skin.
Hanyul Baek Hwa Goh eye cream is 25mL for $59 at Aritaum.

*My preferred term, because it's the least likely to cause confusion.

Kimchi Fried Rice with Tuna

A Korean fast-food classic. The ingredients are pantry staples here and if something is missing I can always nip down to a convenience store; they may be tricky to source outside of Korea, however.

1 ½ – 2 cups rice
salt & pepper to taste
1 tsp sesame seeds
1 tbsp sesame oil
1 tbsp butter
1 can of tuna
⅓ – ½ cup kimchi, chopped into small pieces, plus any reserved liquid
5g (roughly one individual packet) of roasted seaweed, optional
1 egg, fried, optional

Mix rice in a bowl with sesame seeds, sesame oil, salt, and pepper. When seasoning, keep in mind that the kimchi, tuna, and seaweed are also high in salt, and adjust accordingly. The oil should coat each individual grain; this will help with clumps later. If your rice is fresh, then stir a few times while the mixture cools in order to allow the steam to evaporate. On medium-high heat, fry the rice mixture once, moving the grains constantly and breaking up any lumps. Set aside. 김치 볶음밥 evolved as a method to use up soured, leftover kimchi and day(s)-old rice, so while there is no proper technique I do find that tossing the rice in sesame oil, especially when using fresh rice, then pre-frying once, will help you avoid mushy fried rice. It's more work than dumping it all at once into the frying pan, but the more moisture you can extract, the better your result.

The rest comes together quickly. Fry the tuna in butter for thirty seconds, breaking up large chunks, until it starts to soften. Reintroduce the rice mixture in the frying pan, and fry for two minutes longer. Add the kimchi, distributing evenly throughout the mixture. If you like a stronger kimchi flavor, add some of the pickling liquid as well. Stirring constantly, fry until the kimchi is cooked, or longer, until the rice forms a toasted crust (as I prefer it, see above), roughly five minutes—according to your preference. At the last, crumble in some seaweed; it will wilt immediately from the residual moisture in the mixture. Turn off the heat, and plate.

In the pan, I like also to fry an egg; there's enough leftover heat to cook the white but not the yolk, which adds a lovely rich contrast to the salty, umami flavors of the fried rice.

Routines: Cleansing: Fall 2017

Theoretically the simplest part of my routine. And yet I always end up with so many cleansers.

As I've explained in this brief overview, my skin's inadequacy as a barrier is its most salient characteristic: thin, low sebum, dehydrated under arid conditions, and frequently irritated. On top of the customary avoidance of known irritants, what meager acid mantle I've got is easily disrupted, restricting me to minimally invasive formulations, yet not so emollient (most balm cleansers) the residue requires a washcloth. You'd be surprised at what my skin considers aggressive. Nearly anything that foams, the texture of washcloths, a hot shower, even micellar water on cotton wool can be an issue at times.

Fortunately, as I break out rarely, the tactics required to minimize the potential for congestion and acne are largely unnecessary. I also wear very little base makeup, which bypasses the need for intensive cleansing later.

Nevertheless, there are still cleansers my skin tolerates without issue. Well formulated basics, like cleanser, are readily available for not too much trouble or expense, and I most frequently default to the cheapest: Bioderma Atoderm Ultra-Nourishing Shower Oil. In spite of the name, it's a simple, extremely mild detergent-based (not oil) cleanser, barely lathering, with a fragrance reminiscent of sweet peas. It's not an exceptional cleanser in regards to makeup removal, merely adequate; this is what I would consider a 'neutral' cleanser, a reliable basic around which you build the rest of your routine, according to your needs. Everyone needs one. For me, a good cleanser is negatively defined: it's not harsh, it doesn't leave any residue, it doesn't reek of perfume, it's not expensive, but it leaves my skin clean. From time to time, I will play with something more indulgent, purely for the fun of trying out something new, but it's always a comfort to know this has my back.

I employ no elaborate techniques when cleansing: rinse face, apply cleanser, rinse hands, massage gently until you can feel the grime lift off the skin, rinse. Occasionally I do require heavy-duty removal for waterproof sunscreen and makeup, and like most people, for the sake of thoroughness (and gentleness), I find it ideal to break up the process of cleansing into multiple steps. Since I wear waterproof mascara, I soak cotton wool in Bifesta Eye Make Up Remover in order to first dissolve the curl-holding-but-extremely-tenacious formula. Afterwards, I may do a single-cleanse with a neutral cleanser, or I might double-cleanse with micellar water or the eucalyptus-scented, aptly named Heimish All Clean Balm, a solid cleansing oil and therefore a proper makeup remover.

On standby are two products that neatly illustrate how skincare often answers psychological needs rather than utilitarian: Hanyul Ja Cho Oil Cleansing Balm, a non-emulsifying emollient balm, and Tata Harper Refreshing Cleanser, a luxurious cleansing milk. They leave my skin feeling happy, but they don't feel quite right as a daily cleanser. The Hanyul in particular leaves my skin looking clear and refined, but cannot be worked without a washcloth, so I save it for 'spa days', when I'm in the mood for a facial massage.

DETAILS
Bioderma Atoderm Ultra Nourishing Shower Oil is available in 100mL, 200mL, and 1L sizes at Feel Unique for roughly $8-20. I bought mine at Olive Young for ₩22,000.
Bifesta Eye Make Up Remover is 145mL, available at sasa.com for $6.80. I bought mine at Olive Young, on sale two for ₩12,000.
Heimish All Clean Balm is 120mL, available on Amazon. I bought mine at Åland for ₩18,000.
Hanyul Ja Cho Oil Cleansing Balm is 60mL, available at Aritaum. I bought mine (on sale) at Aritaum for ₩19,000.
Tata Harper Refreshing Cleanser is $78 for 125mL, available at Nordstrom. I bought mine at Cult Beauty for £58.33.