Review: Swanicoco Fermentation Care Skintoner

If you're looking for radiant, dewy, bouncy skin straight out of a skincare advertisement, Swanicoco Fermentation Care Skintoner is most glow-boosting softener I've yet encountered, with an ingredients list that hits you like a actives-led serum. (Indeed, my preferred method of use is to pair it with the Fermentation Care Serum, as the effects only intensify when layered.)

INGREDIENTS (Skintoner)    aspergillus/rice ferment filtrate, Centaurea cyanus flower water, tissue-cultured wild ginseng extract, butylene glycol, human oligopeptide-1, hydrolyzed collagen, sodium hyaluronate, niacinamide, saccharomyces/Viscum album ferment filtrate, saccharomyces/Imperata cylindrica root ferment filtrate, lactobacillus/soybean ferment filtrate, lactobacillus/Rhus semialata gall extract ferment filtrate, glycerin, 1,2-hexanediol, Saussurea involucrata extract, caffeoyl tripeptide-1, polysorbate 60, caprylic/capric triglyceride, allantoin, tocopheryl acetate, carbomer, arginine, Centella asiatica leaf extract, lactobacillus/Bambusa vulgaris shoot/Glycyrrhiza glabra root/Luffa cylindrica fruit/Morus alba root/Oueraria lobata root ferment filtrate, Camellia sinensis seed oil, Magnolia kobus bark extract, Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, green tea/black tea/white tea/pu'er tea extract, rosemary leaf extract, Chamomilla recutita (matricaria) leaf extract, Citrus grandis fruit extract, Thujopsis dolabrata branch extract

INGREDIENTS (Serum)    aspergillus/rice ferment filtrate, human oligopeptide-1, tissue-cultured wild ginseng extract, astaxanthin, sodium hyaluronate, butylene glycol, caffeoyl tripeptide-1, sh-Octapeptide-4, nicotinoyl tripeptide-1, lactobacillus/soybean ferment extract, saccharomyces/Viscum album extract, saccharomyces/Imperata cylindrica root extract, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, ceramide 1, saccharomyces/Asparagus cochinchinensis root/Lycium chinense root/Ophiopogon japonicus root/Panax ginseng root/Poria cocos/Rehmannia glutinosa root ferment filtrate, niacinamide, 1,2-hexanediol, saccharomyces/Lycium chinense fruit/Rehmannia glutonoa root/Cuscuta chinensis fruit/Cistanche deserticoloa/Zanthoxylum piperitum fruit/Chrysanthemum morifolium fruit/Poria cocos/Cinnamomum cassia ferment filtrate, polysorbate 50, allantoin, carbomer, hydrolyzed elastin, arginine, Magnolia kobus bark extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, Rhus semialata gall extract, Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, Saccharomyces/Angelic dahurica root ferment filtrate, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, adenosine, Rosmarinus officinalis leaft extract, Chamomilla recutita (matricaria) leaf extract, Citrus grandis fruit extract, Thujopsis dolabrata branch extract, Rosa damescena flower oil

It's certainly true to name. There's an abundance of ferments here, plus reassuringly top-heavy doses of ginseng, EGF, humectants like collagen and sodium hyaluronate, and niacinamide—all without alcohol or silicones. Fermentation is a metabolic process in which bacteria or yeast break down substrates, theoretically making the nutrients more readily absorbed by the skin, thereby enhancing the inherent benefits of the extract. As a bonus, ferments are naturally acidic.

On drier, dehydrated skin types, the texture is ideal for the 7Skin Method: a thickened water, absorbs quickly at initial application and reaches saturation point before it becomes unbearably sticky. The Serum is marginally thicker in viscosity, but, without much in the way of fillers, absorbs as easily as the Skintoner. However, because Swanicoco is priced higher (and works best when layered with the serum or emulsion), I prefer not to use it for 7Skin. It's not, in any case, designed with the purpose of hydration in mind; Fermentation Care seems better categorized as a brightening, antioxidant-rich 'first essence', and in that role it is highly effective. Only a small amount is required to achieve luminosity, though I was not as lucky as vanity rex and did not experience any lightening of hyperpigmentation. Personally, I use two or three layers of the Skintoner, one layer of the Serum, then follow up with a hydrating toner, an emulsion, a sunscreen or an occlusive cream... and so forth.

Gel-like water Skintoner at left; slightly higher viscosity Serum at right.

The fragrance is green apple with notes of an aldehydic rose. Fermentation Care comes in a ultra-reflective silver airless pump bottle. While I recognize the practicality of an airless pump, I nevertheless find it something of an eyesore.

As with all complex ingredients lists, approach with caution if you have reactive skin: I notice my skin warms up ever so slightly upon initial application, presumably from the ginseng, and with continued use microcomedones start simmering beneath my skin, surfacing in the presence of another irritant, such as hot shower water. It's anyone's guess which ingredient among so many is the culprit, but this is a risk anyone with sensitive skin takes, and does not detract from the quality of the formulation itself.


AFTERTHOUGHTS
    SWANICOCO Fermentation Care Skintoner

• PROS: Available at select locations in Seoul. Alcohol free. Texture is ideal for layering, starting to become sticky after four. Multiple, multiple ferments; extremely brightening.
• CONS: RRP isn't unreasonable, but Swanicoco does not appear to run sales as frequently as other brands, so I would consider this pricey, allayed by the sense of paying for quality ingredients and formulation. Moderate at hydration; may need to follow up with a more hydrating toner. Fragrance. Alas, I found this too irritating.
• UNIQUE FEATURES: So many beautiful ingredients. Worth reiterating: extremely brightening. The previous name for this product appears to be 산삼배양근; it is currently 퍼멘테이션 케어.

DETAILS
Swanicoco Fermentation Care Skintoner is 120mL for $38, available at W2Beauty. I bought mine at the Ewha location (I think there is also a store near Gangnam station) for ₩35,000.

Spotlight On: Hanyul Rice Essential Skin Softener

The one that started it all. The Hanyul Rice Essential Skin Softener was my gateway to the 7Skin Method.

What I've discovered is that, with sufficient hydration, my skin tends to sort itself out. Excepting the arid winter months, I've become less drier and sensitive than before. (Incorporating niacinamide, with its barrier-repairing, ceramide-production inducing, photocarcinogenesis-inhibiting, melanin-formation-suppressing, anti-inflammatory, etcetera functions, has also helped enormously.) It may take a lot of layering to get there, but 7Skin works. Dehydration is better addressed by several light layers than a single heavy one, though I've never found it necessary to go full seven layers. Additionally, it opens up the possibility of maximizing the first product in your routine. Not only is it the first layer, in full and direct contact with the skin, it's also a product you use in high amounts, so theoretically it's possible to read specific benefits by simply changing formulas.

This has sparked an odyssey for my perfect 7Skin toner, as the Hanyul is not ideal. The texture is too thick and serum-like, and becomes quite sticky when layered, plus it features alcohol rather high up on the ingredients list. On the other hand, the combination of niacinamide, ferments, and humectants is effective at brightening and keeping the skin hydrated. Like any good first essence, it immediately perks up dull, tired-looking skin.

INGREDIENTS (2017 FORMULATION)    water, alcohol, PEG/PPG-16/6 copolymer, glycereth-26, butylene glycol, niacinamide, monascus/rice ferment, lactobacillus/soybean ferment extract, saccharomyces/barley seed ferment filtrate, sodium hyaluronate, angelica acutiloba root extract, cnidium officinale root extract, soybean seed extract, glycerin, glyceryl polymethacrylate, dextrin, bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane, adenosine, ethylhexylglycerin, carbomer, theobroma cacao extract, tromethamine, PPG-13-decyltetradeceth-24, disodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol, fragrance

The fragrance is a pleasant powdery floral, with hints of rice wine. The shape of the bottle is a nod to the traditional clay pots (옹기) used in the fermentation of foods in Korean cuisine, but in translucent mauve ombré glass—aesthetically, neither here nor there for me. Additionally, Hanyul is everywhere in Korea, and Aritaum frequently runs sales on this bestseller: 200mL for ~₩20,000, reasonably priced for someone who ploughs through a bottle a month. The issue is primarily, then, a matter of texture, and the less-than-ideal inclusion of alcohol; it's been formulated this way, I presume, to compensate for the almost sticky, heavy texture of rice extract, and make it more pleasant on the skin. With the positives outweighing the negatives, it's been hard to find better.

These are the products I'd categorize as "niacinamide/ferments-based brightening first essences".
I've accumulated far more: for calming irritation, hydration only, ceramide-based. -_-'

This is just the beginning. I've got a dozen or so products for the purposes of experimentation and review. Considering the popularity of the 7Skin Method, I have to imagine it has proved equally effective for others when dealing with dehydration, and just as tricky finding the right toner for the job. Hopefully I'll find something that answers this burning desire for the perfectly layerable, brightening, hydrating, soothing, but not-too-pricey-and-hard-to-get water-based solution.


AFTERTHOUGHTS

    HANYUL Rice Essential Skin Softener

• PROS: Accessibility and price point (within Korea). Aesthetics are a non-issue. Multiple ferments; brightens well. In spite of the alcohol, I find it hydrating and not drying; likely the alcohol was deemed necessary to cut through the humectants and fermented rice extract.
• CONS: Texture is thick, and becomes sticky after one layer. Alcohol. Fragrance.
• UNIQUE FEATURES: Jeon JiHyun sparked a craze for this product. It's the jack-of-all-trades, master-of-none product so far in my search for the ideal 7Skin Toner.

DETAILS
Hanyul is 150mL for $35, available at Aritaum, 200mL for ₩37,000, but I frequently find it on sale.

What Is A 'Neutral' Product?

I'm a firm believer in the psychological pleasures of beauty products. Sometimes, I want to treat myself to a luxurious product, to satisfy the lust we often feel as consumers for something new, something extravagant, something precious, something rare and hard-to-find. Often, however, I lose focus and the once-exciting treasure is not sought out for repurchase. Over the years I've come to the conclusion that when it comes to high-turnover products like skincare—quickly used up, quickly repurchased—I prefer my most-loved essential products to be boring. Neutral.

If I had no other skincare, I would be fine. I do have more, of course. =)

If your aim is simply to take good care of your skin, then finding a core routine of reliable products is all that's required. If you enjoy experimentation, you still need neutral products to fall back on, as a point of comparison for your skin's preferences. My 'neutral' cleanser is not my Tata Harper Refreshing Cleanser, and I know this, in spite of its heavenly fragrance of grapefruit and neroli, the creamy warm pink hue, the gentle purification from pink clay and willow bark, the bottle like summer sunshine filtered by a tree spreading its green branches above you; it's my Bioderma Atoderm Ultra-Nourishing Shower Oil, which you can buy in a colossal 1L size and offers little in the way of romance. It's a cleanser, in sum. A very good, simple formula, and an economical option for dry, sensitive skin. This isn't to claim that one is superior to the other—in fact both feature coco-glucoside as their main detergent—there's room in our skincare routines, surely, for both frivolous luxuries as well as boring, utilitarian products. However, for a routine to work, it does need to be built on a foundation of neutral products. The option to experiment is always there; it's harder to find the basics.

Some signs that a product is a neutral product:

• FORMULA   Typically (but not always) a simple, minimalist formula designed for most skin types including sensitive. Or, a product that you know well, and can be sure of how your skin reacts.
• PERFORMANCE   Reliable to the point it no longer requires much thought to use. It's always in the background, performing faithfully. Ingredients lists are a start, but they don't necessarily determine how they perform on the skin, so this differs somewhat from formula.
• LIFESTYLE   Integrates well into your routine and plays well with other products. Often this is where texture comes into play.
• ACCESSIBILITY   Skincare, unlike eyeshadow palettes, are high-turnover products and require frequent repurchases. Personally, I love the thrill of the hunt when it comes to experimenting, but strangely loathe the hassle when making repurchases. As such, I prefer to buy within the domestic market (currently South Korea). The beauty industry is rife with copycats, so you can often find products that are similar to each other; for example I don't necessarily consider Heimish All Clean Balm the best makeup-removing initial cleanse on the market, but it is a good product that I can find easily without too much expense.
• PRICE POINT   Again, because skincare tends to be high turnover, the pricing becomes a factor when it comes time to repurchase. For me, that's between ₩10,000–₩50,000, depending on its kind.
• CONSUMER HABITS   If you've repurchased it or have a stockpile of backups, that's an obvious sign. It's not always possible to avoid ordering online; something critical like sunscreen or a specialized treatment may prove more elusive when it comes to finding the right formula.
• COMPETITION   It becomes a standard by which you measure other products. If you enjoy experimenting with skincare, that core routine gives you clarity: drop after drop, Product X was enjoyable, but at the end of the bottle (or jar), you think, "Well, it's not quite as nice as old faithful Product Y." This makes dabbling in luxury products less burdensome, in my opinion, since you are not looking for commitment.

Most of my own 'neutral' products are fairly bland but well made utilitarian products and, though best suited for drier skin, I can recommend without much reservation: Bioderma Atoderm Ultra-Nourishing Shower Oil, Bifesta Eye Make Up Remover, Heimish All Clean Balm, Freeplus Moist Care Lotion 2, Etude House Soon Jung 10-Free Moist Emulsion/Atopalm MLE Cream/Huxley More Than Moist, and Sun Bears Super Strong Plus SPF50/PA++++. One is a treatment; Paula's Choice 1% Retinol is fairly aggressive, so this is one to consider carefully before introducing it into your routine.

Routines: Treatment: Fall 2017

One category of products is conspicuously absent in my routine: and those are actives* (with the exception of sunscreen).

At the present moment my skincare is largely dedicated to maintenance and care. While I do break up cleansing and moisturizing into multiple steps, my routine is ultimately nothing more than maintenance. Currently I have neither a no-nonsense minimalist routine nor an overflow of trendy products: some are neutral basic formulations, others are psychologically indulgent luxuries. A little faff is okay, in my estimation. I find that if you've established a core routine of reliable and neutral basics, you can experiment a little outside of products that offer value for money, conservative skincare practices (such as avoiding plant extracts), and those ingredients backed by clinical research. But, again with the exception of sunscreen, these products will not counter the inevitability of genetics and time.

The only active-led, anti-aging product in my arsenal (again, except for sunscreen, if only to reinforce its importance) is Paula's Choice CLINICAL 1% Retinol Treatment. I use this around my eyes, where the first signs occur; for whatever reason, my skin does not find retinoids overly irritating, not even tretinoin, so I find a 1% retinol offers just enough punch to use as an anti-aging eye cream. Additionally, I've been pumping it out first onto a hyperpigmentation spot on the back of my hand—because why not—and I am delighted to report that the spot has started to fade. I would also like to incorporate a LAA serum underneath my sunscreen, since antioxidants and sun protection go hand in hand, but the combination of a niacinamide-heavy routine** and lack of access to a stable formulation in Korea hasn't made vitamin C valid as an option. I typically don't have issues with my skin outside of sensitivity, and since actives have a higher probably of triggering a reaction, a retinol is all I've got. I dare say, however, it's a heavy-hitter.

I do not use a dedicated niacinamide-led treatment—at least, there's no information on percentages for any of the products I use—but it is scattered all throughout my routine for its ameliorative effect on my easily upset, easily dehydrated skin. Under the influence of niacinamide, my skin has normalized and become far less reactive than previously, which is my primary concern. Niacinamide boosts radiance and evens out skin tone to boot—always a bonus.

Occasionally my skin has a meltdown. It reacts far less frequently now that it's frequently dosed with niacinamide, but it still happens. In which case I scale back to the bare minimum of Bioderma Atoderm cleanser and one of my favorite discoveries in Korea, Dr. Jart Cicapair, available in both serum and cream. I layer them generously, bunker down, and wait the irritation out. It's very rare that you will find products that will speed recovery and healing; Cicapair is one of the few that does.

Due to having paper-skin to begin with, there is no separate category for exfoliation. Since it addresses a multiplicity of issues from congestion to hyperpigmentation to acne, I would classify exfoliation as treatment. However, I don't exfoliate. It does me far more harm than good.


DETAILS
Paula's Choice 1% Retinol is 30mL for $56, available at Paula's Choice. I haven't replaced mine yet, but RRP in Korea is ₩77,000.
Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Serum is 30mL for $46, available at Sephora. I bought mine at Olive Young for ₩38,000.
Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Cream is 50mL for $48, available at Sephora. I bought mine at Olive Young for ₩45,000.

*It's possible to classify any number of ingredients as actives, but by this I mean potent actives with benefits and side effects on the skin beyond simple cleansing/moisturizing, thus requiring special handling in terms of formulation and application. A cream is a cream at the end of the day; an LAA serum requires more research to incorporate optimally into your routine.
**I have read that the research claiming LAA and niacinamide cannot be used simultaneously is outdated. However, as I don't have access to a proper stabilized concentration of vitamin C product at the moment, the issue is moot.

Lookbook: Faded Roses

Here is my current everyday look. Since I typically favor grey-toned pastels and bold lips, so this is my idea of a dusty toned-down look for autumn, rather than a neutral look. To balance out the earthy tones, it's centered around Bobbi Brown Blush 29 Nude Pink, a pastel violet-pink that oxidizes on my skin into a deeper pink that closely resembles an old discontinued favorite, Becca Wild Orchid. The lipstick I coordinate most frequently with it is Clé de Peau Lipstick 09 Silk Thread, a soft rose with mauve undertones. On me, it's a bog-standard neutral lip, but I nevertheless appreciate the supremely comfortable, balmy formula. I'm most comfortable in a bold lip, so they're still in rotation: Armani Lip Magnet #501 Eccentrico, an ultra-flourescent pink that's probably visible from space, and Missha Signature Dewy Rouge RD04 Scarlet Lady, a glossy pink-red sufficiently muted down that it feels appropriately autumnal.

As you can see, Nude Pink oxidizes significantly on my skin. But!... Into a color I like.

I've gone brighter on the cheeks mainly to offset the simple wash of brown eyeshadow on my lids. No one's more surprised than I am to find how much I like Aritaum Mono Eyes in M18 Classic Shadow, an ashy greyed matte taupe, but I find I can get away with this because it has absolutely no warmth. It could easily double for contouring.

The rest is finished off by bushy brows, courtesy of Bourjois Brow Design 04 Brun, which yields a fluffy and dramatic brow, moreso than the infamous Boy Brow, and extra definition at the lashline by tightlining. The result is an effortless, almost natural-looking smoky eye (if I didn't wear mascara, I think it would pass for natural), so to ramp up the smoulder a notch, Clinique Cream Shaper For Eyes 103 Egyptian, green-gold reflects scattered through a dilute charcoal kohl. Or, because my idea of a seasonal look tends to be variations on a theme, a touch of Addiction The Eyeshadow 052 Midnight Drive lifts the matte taupe ever so slightly and takes it in a more polished, colorful direction. I like the freshness of a pastel against the more conventional autumnal tones.


AFTERTHOUGHTS
I love the color on Bobbi Brown Nude Pink, but I wish the texture was less choppy.
Clé de Peau Silk Thread was bought in Japan, almost as a souvenir; otherwise, an expensive lipstick in a boring shade.
Love both Armani Lip Magnets and the Missha Signature Dewy Rouge formulae, however.
I wish I knew which MAC shadow Aritaum Classic Shadow is duping.
Might have to go back to Boy Brow. Bourjois Brow Design is finicky to apply: too big a brush.
KBeauty was obsessed with Clinique Egyptian several years ago, and that's why I thought to buy it.
I rarely wear colorful eye looks these days, but I still like to collect shadows, especially when they're as pretty as Addiction Midnight Drive.